Trailer build ASAP


#61

Looking at the hose reels in the first picture, the way they are set would make him roll the reel backwards with his left hand. Unless he gets in the trailer. Was this planned this way? I know they can’t really be mounted any other way though.


#62

Good to even out the workload, no? I like that two of my reels are mounted right handed, since I’m a lefty and am staving off some carpal tunnel in my left wrist. When I get around to rebuilding my rig, I’ll probably switch the third reel around to be right handed, too.


#63

I was looking at the way the hose would roll up. The spigot is facing the rear of the trailer. But never thought of evening the workload on ya.


#64

Ahh, didn’t catch that. It’d be like pedalling a bicycle backwards, lol. I wonder if @squidskc has a solution in mind for that?


#65

My guess is he wanted the metal ID tag to face the front and wanted the crank handle on the left so he just unbolted the bearing mounts and spun the drum not knowing he could have just swapped the swivel and the crank handle to achieve what he was after.


#66

These are rubber feet with a metal washer molded in for guitar amplifiers. What are “true” isolation mounts?

I took all reels off the bases in order slid into the racks underneath and used the bases to mark the holes for attaching them. At this point the reels were just places back onto bases to make sure everything would go in just fine. With 4 machines in the trailer and 2 inlets. This was the best way for me to mount the reel stacks. But this trailer is huge. There’s almost 4 feet access in between the reel stacks. But yeah. the reels need adjusting.


#67

Thanks man. No this is going to have 4 machines running in it. 2 underneath.


#68

Yeah. They were put back a little willy nilly at first just so I could make sure all was good. I’ll pull the ends before I tighten every thing down and spin them around.


#69

There are several different versions but they will all not have hardware pass through the entire length. The hardware is molded into the rubber on both ends so you only have rubber in de middle of yo sammich like this


#70

Or like this3600016_A


#71

On their way.

As far as the steel mounting plate for the engine I like that idea a lot. Didn’t even thing about it, but I’d prefer it.


#72

Shoot, I hope those studs are long enough! They have female/female that you could bolt into. Lots of options but you have to search around. And yeah harmonic frequencies are a beast. It will just sit there working and working on something and then it finally cracks where the vibration met in the middle. Nothing but time on its side. Kind of like wings coming off of planes before they started timing the frequencies coming off the jet turbines to oppose each other but with less dramatic effect.


#73

I think I’m going bevel the ends back and weld another nut in the tube. I’ve gotta take it off to weld on the mounting plate.

I may weld in a couple cross members too.

That would’ve been a lot easier than trying drill down through two walls of tube.


#74

Get the female threaded isolators, and use regular bolts.


#75

@dperez So here’s the new skid idea. Mounting plate. Got proper isolators on the way. Feet that will have bolt holes for setting on top on the isolators.

Anyone ever put rubber bumpers under the pump? @Innocentbystander your main thing is vibration kills pumps. Any draw backs to putting a rubber bumper under the pump?

Btw I’m calling this the skeleskid because everything needs a cool name and skideleton sounded like a cartoon bear AND I’m the kinda guy that has carpet in his garage.


#76

You want honesty right? You know you are going to get it lol. Don’t build a frame with bolted together pieces. No matter how much you tighten them they are going to vibrate loose and are not a solid connection. Put a solid piece under the engine and pump with bumpers under that. Bumpers directly under the pump will never allow you to tighten it fully when you adjust the belts. Don’t reinvent the wheel. Copy Diego’s skid and mount the whole thing on 2 inch square tubing. Angle iron is going to tick you off down the road when he starts shaking itself apart. That’s just might thoughts sitting back and watching this build. I am may of course be wrong, and hope I am, but you are to much of a friend not to tell you my thoughts. Over build anything that makes you money or protects your life.


#77

Nope. That’s what I wanted to hear. It’s a gear drive pump. So mount the engine itself on bumpers?

And it’s all welded. :slight_smile: the only bolts are holding everything to walls.


#78

Ok. It’s hard for me to get a grasp of the pics. I thought it was bolted together. As long as you have rubber bumpers between skid and frame/frame and tralier floor or something similiar you will be ok. Anything to isolate vibration. If your coffee cup sill sit on the running engine and not slosh around you are successful


#79

Brodie, I watched your video the other day. If your looking for an easy way to anchor without welding a nut on the backside get one of these and keep those anchor nuts for lighter things. Super easy and actually pretty strong. Just my 2 cents. It’s a river nut tool


#80

You like it? It’s on my wish list.