Just bought a boxtruck and could use your guys advice with setup

I never had any problems. Make sure it’s bolted near a corner where it’s stronger. Put a flat piece of steel, index card or so I’ve the foot to disperse the weight.

It’s a 14’ V nose- it’s a little tail heavy w empty tanks :joy:

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Thanks. I need to reduce my footprint, had difficulty getting into a few places last year with a pickup and 18’ trailer. I’ve been shopping for smaller trailers, a box truck like OP has, or a flatbed/stakebody.

I had the same dilemma as to what works best. Read a lot of good info on pros and cons of all kinds of setups (trailer enclosed, trailer open, truck mount, box truck etc.)

I went for a enclosed trailer for a couple reasons:

-I have 2 other trailers I regularly tow for work, so I had one truck that go do 3 different kinds of work.

-on bigger jobs I have dropped the enclosed PW trailer at a job site, let the guys work and have the the ability to be mobile to go bid work or use the truck during the day.

-Here on the coast in the Pacific NW it rains a lot, not to mention salt corrosion. Anything you leave outside will not last long. At least enclosed my equipment is out of the weather and I can store rain gear tools etc.

-trailers are cheap- registration and insurance are a lot cheaper than a another truck.

One major drawback is the SH corrosion factor. I vented the SH tanks down through the floor and out, but it’s still potent stuff. Any day that is decent weather I crack the back doors and let it vent and air out. IBS warned me that it will still corrode even if properly vented- it does!

Everyone has their own needs and situation - so far this is working for me, DEFINITELY DO NOT WANT TO START ANOTHER THREAD ON WHATS THE BEST RIG SETUP​:laughing::rofl:

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Oh wow. Here I was thinking I had it all figured out with plans to vent sh through the floor. How much corrosion are we talking? You being in my area (ish) and having similar weather to southeast Alaska this pertains to me. The thought process I had was that I didn’t like having to put my trailer in all these weird spots I end up being and so far love the box truck. I averaged a little over 14mpg on the way from California to Arizona…empty of course but better than my trucks mpg :joy:

SH corrodes like crazy. Our tank is inside our roughly 4000sf x 25’ tall shop, and we park the trucks inside there. Virtually never even a trace scent of SH, yet our tools in the chest over at the workbench just rust away. Nut drivers I have on the pegboard that I bought brand new 2 years ago are completely rust covered now. Things will rust, design and plan accordingly, lol

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My plan was filling vented lids with epoxy, closed transfers, and venting to underneath floorboards. You guys are freaking me out now. :joy:

Nothing to be freaked out about…you’re slinging bleach, crap will rust…plan as best as possible and maintain even better

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Personally, I’d probably vent it out a wall or through the roof. Venting underneath is just going to exacerbate the corrosion.

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Took a break from through bolting the frame for the pressure washer as my buddy cross threaded the last but for it and must have sent that thing. Was a real pain to break with his fisher price tool set.

Today I put that door in and hoping to finish and mount pressure washer tonight. Will update with pics if I do.

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That last bolt got stuck again tonight :joy: I used new hardware as well and am at a loss. Pulled the PW up into bed and tried mounting it but with the bushings the bolts were too small and wouldn’t fit and hardware store was closed. So… tomorrow it is… Running out of days this trip for work. Was really hoping to get that thing installed finally but it’s been giving me fits. Once it’s in I think everything else will pretty much fall into place though

I like everything but the 2x4’s that I assume you plan on mounting the skid to. If it makes it to Seattle I’ll send you 20 bucks. I think you’re gonna have a busted board or two after the first bump. nice job on the rv door and fasteners underneath.

Was hoping someone would give feedback like this. What would you do differently to beef up the 2x4 area? Extra bracing? Larger wood than 2x4? I wish metal was an option but it isn’t really until I get up to Alaska where I have friends who can laugh at what I’ve done so far and probably fix/beef up and weld.

Set it on the floor against the wall and run one bolt thru one of the feet. It will be sitting there when you get to Alaska.

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I kinda wanted to see what this looked like and since I had nothing better to do, check out the way it all sat because I had a feeling that those rubber feet would sit funny.

What are your thoughts on this? It looks wonky to me. I am wondering if it’s good with that huge gap on all the feet and if not I’m kind of perplexed at why the skid feet would be like this. I am by no means an expert though so would love some input.

I could use something like this to more evenly out it on the feet but maybe I’m being a little too rediculous?

Here’s some more pictures. I finally got smart and started waxing the stainless screws and nylon bolts because it was getting really old using a Dremel on galled nuts… I learned all about that AFTER I bought them of course.





One other thing @Innocentbystander . I’m assuming the 1in barb is water in, the quick connect looks like for the whip line to the reel, the 3/4 barb looks like it’s for the return back to water tank but I’m not sure. What is that for and if it’s for the return to water tank why is it 3/4? Seems a bit big but like I said I’m not expert and would love to know!

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No expert either, but I’d say you done figured that one out :crazy_face:

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Just second guessing because idk why the return line would be that big. Also because I’m gonna have to buy some 3/4 hose

or a smaller barb :man_shrugging:

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Stop making sense. What are you using? …logic… reasoning? Psh.

Ill probably swap it to 1/2 then if that’s not going to make this blow up. I’m new to this nice equipment. Afraid I’m gonna kill it. Never even seen one in real life before this.

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I just checked our standard plumbing schematic and that’s the one hose in the entire systems they didn’t label :joy: I’m relatively sure it’s about the size of my pinky though, so 3/8, maybe even 1/4, IDK I mean, if it goes into bypass and you’re getting 3kpsi into the water tank, you may want to stick with the larger barb & hose…