It’s in the instruction booklet that came with the valve…
Make no mistake, in no way am I trying to compete with your system, it’s far and away much better than this el-cheapo setup. I’m just playing around with it and trying to keep from hiking uphill back to the trailer all the time. It’s very hilly here.
But what is their definition of “minimal” is what I’m getting at. I was more so joking!
My other beef with the valves is how fast the corrosion sets in.
Oh no I appreciate the explanation that’s what I wanted was a opinion I just gotta see for myself I’m going to get the volt meter out I will take pictures I love to do things like this so now I’m just super curious
If you look a little closer at the instructions there are two 2 wire models. Only the auto return model will consume nominal power when open. Looks like both Anthony’s and mine that I just opened up aren’t the auto return. That explains why his is staying open when he cuts power and I don’t see a battery.
Can a volt meter show consumption?
I had another one somewhere that had the auto return. I’ll see if I can dig it out tomorrow if I still have it.
So how could you possibly use that valve without auto return? How would you make it work?
It doesn’t have to if I put positive on switch side when in off position and turn it on it will show 12 volts once it opens and I remove power it will not close. So my question is if it’s not using power why would it create heat?
I haven’t used it so I don’t know. I originally ordered it, then saw where the instructions said it was consuming power when open, so ordered the 5 wire. This is the first time I’ve really looked at the instructions and even noticed two different two wire valves.
Wouldn’t the controller just tell the motor to operate in forward and reverse micro switch to micro switch
No. Like I said. Controllers are very fancy toggle switches. They offer power to the red wire or offer no power.
Ok I see what you are saying but not talking about the remote control that only controls power I’m talking about the controller in the motor housing
Probably has to do with a little relay or something. Heck, they can program circuit boards to do anything.
This is why I like working on the engine side of things and hate it when I have to troubleshoot an electrical problem…lol
So without an internal battery or a spring load how would you expect it to close when the remote control board stops feeding it electricity?
So either you have the wrong valve that requires reverse polarity to close
OR
yours has a spring load or battery inside it.
You can test this by jumping it across a battery to open it. It it opens but doesn’t close when disconnected try hooking it up backwards. Black to red and red to black. If it closes when you reverse it you may as well throw the valve in the trash.
On a side note, can the steel lower valve be safely taken off so it hangs down? I ordered another box in case I wanted to clean things up a bit.
That’s why I returned the reverse polarity model. Became instantly obvious I got the wrong one.
Just install cable glands in the bottom and keep all the fittings in the box. No need for the valve body to hang out or the barbs. Keep it all in the box.
Roger that. Easy peasy.
I forget what size the correct glands are. They sell a pack with tons of sizes on Amazon. Just route the hoses through them.
