8 gpm machine purchase - 3K or 3.5K

Please explain the cold air damaging valves through the exhaust.

Typically, burned valves on engines with open exhaust is due to the leaning of the fuel/air mixture from carb not being properly jetted for open exhaust…not because of cold air backing into combustion chambers. In other words, the head flows too well and brings in too much air from the air box (air filter) for the stock jetted fuel/air mixture ratio…resulting in lean combustion chambers(too much air and not enough fuel) thereby increasing chamber burn temperature, overheating(burning) valves and contributing to overheated (burned) pistons.

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To lean a mixture does exactly what you described. From the time I started turning a wrench in the early 70s it was preached that open headers caused valve failure due to the cold air inrush. Leaning it it too much is probably more plausible today. Also hurt your low end but got you a bit more in the top…

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True the 690 is closer to a 22hp than anything else. Even the gx390 only puts out 12.6 hp but it’s referred to as a 13

I was thinking how to make louder. Older guy on the old RCIA forum had this 1"air pump but was powered by this frigging HUGE industrial air compressor. Thing took up 1/2 the back of his truck with big exhausts coming out the top like a tractor trailer. He said when he pulled into a neighborhood in the mornings and cranked that sucker up everyone from 1/2 block around came out to see it. Where he got most of his business, lol Just wondering.

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Guy I talked to with the straight pipe going straight up was to reduce lateral noise footprint. HOA’s were not letting him start before 9am because it was so loud. I like your idea though. Lol

The machine it self makes a ton of noise the trailer is open and if you closed the trailer (exhausting outside) then the trailer would amplify it like a bass speaker. BUT if your trailer has insulation on the walls and roof for sound deadening that will cut it way down. Mot people don’t want the time of expense to do this… Some guys put a big 4x4 “box” made from 4x8 sheets of foam insulation around their machines and that cuts it down some. But then that means you have to carry that with you and place around your PW every time you use it and store it when you dont. With all that said I have never had a HOA say anything as long as it was after 8 am. I have seen people have softvwash rigs COMPletly run by electric for this reason.

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@FATJOE you have any photos of your 8 gpm machine? Ive seen the photos the power wash store has online but I’d like to see some with the steel skid.

I will get some this afternoon

Thanks!


1 screw on the top of the belt housing and it comes right off

I talked with bill at pressure wash store today and the 8gpm 3500 psi belt drive water dragon comes on a steel skid and he offered free freight for what it’s worth.

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Very nice lookin machine. Thanks for sending the pictures.

If you guys have any mechanical skills, you can build your own washer for a little more than these off the shelf “commercial” brands. A pressure pro with poly chains at 8/3500 is what, $3800ish?

I have about $4300ish into this build… Its a Kohler 37hp, Legacy 10.4gpm/3625psi pump, Poly Chain driven. I promise you it will run circles around ANY “commercial” brand with a little Honda 690 engine that claims 3500/8gpm.
As some have mentioned on here, you cant get around physics and math when you compute your pump specs to get a desired HP. Any Flex in the frame will cause wear and tear. These thin cheap aluminum skids do flex!
My skid is a solid steel 18" wide C Channel that is 3/8" thick. The ends are capped off and welded with 3" angle iron. Skid alone weighs 143lbs. How do I know? I got it from scrap yard and they weigh it for sale. Skid cost me about $70.
You want bad ■■■? Build it! This entire washer weighs about 350lbs and it aint flexing one bit!
Legacy pumps are built to last. Look on their website. Clearly states that they ran their pumps several times DRY for 24hrs at a time and the pump had NO wear and tear. Try running a AR, GP, CAT etc pump dry for a few seconds and see what happens.

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Nice, this is what I like seeing

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Really nice build.

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That’s a horse there. Nice job as I sit drooling, lol.

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That there is awesome.

I notice in your pictures some kind of jig under your pump, which looks like a belt-tensioning mechanism. Am I right? Did you come up with that yourself? Nice work!

The pump is sitting on pump base. The 2 bolts on the side is a belt tensioner. I wanna redo it though.

You show me a manufacturer that encourages you to run YOUR pump dry, take it apart and see there will be NO damage! Why doesn’t AR, CAT, GP, UDOR make this bold claim? Yep, because they cant and know their pump will take a dump immediately!
You can see where I highlighted their no water dry claim…
Your welcome…

From Legacys website

"LEGACY HD PUMPS

HD Pumps from Legacy are the most durable pumps on the market today. Legacy is introducing the next wave in high-pressure pumps, the Legacy HD Pump. This heavy-duty, high-pressure pump is the outcome of years of research and development, resulting in a number of upgrades over previous pump models. Premium, long-life components and new design features make the Legacy HD pump a standout among other high-pressure pumps. Tests prove it will hold up better in rugged working conditions.

We believe the Legacy HD Pump is the strongest, most durable pump in the market. We’ve tested the pump in extreme conditions and are confident in it’s strength and performance. We ran the pump dry in separate tests for 24 hours, and the pump showed no sign of wear. We challenge you to try the new Legacy HD Pump. Run the pump dry. Take it apart and look how well it holds up. The Legacy HD holds up in these extreme conditions. Imagine how it will perform with everyday regular use!"strong text