This is a little bit of a read, butI need some advice from the pros here. I have been in Business for myself since 1997 and am moving into exterior cleaning… I have been reading and taking notes for a while now. I currently have a vinyl graphics business tied to a car stereo shop in the same location. So if any of you need graphics, or any 12 volt help I would be more than happy to help those willing to give me a hand here! With my long history in the graphics business I have tons of contacts (landscapers, arborists, realtors, builders etc) which I am generating leads quickly on jobs. The most numerous leads are vinyl house cleaning and roofs. Right now some equipment I have to start with is a Mitm 4000 psi 4gpm belt driven 16hp twin, a All American cleaning systems 4gpm 3000 psi Dominator series hot pressure washer, (I know I am lacking in gpm on these two machines) a spare 11 hp honda motor from another pressure washer and a twin tank honda powered 5hp 8 gallon wheelbarrow style compressor. Out of this what would be the best way to set up my soft wash system? Air compressor powered diaphragm pump, motor powered pump like those on watercannon.com or go electric. I would rather not do an xjet and drag a bucket around. I have a spare 16’ equipment trailer that I would like to build out, but right now I would like to operate out of my 04 2500 ram bed that will be my dedicated company truck. I love fabricating and have the ability to weld steel, stainless steel and aluminum in house so making a skid is not out of the question. The only thing I am not sure about building is the proportioning valve. I have 2 300 gallon tanks, a bunch of poly 50 gallon drums as well. Sorry for the long read! Again I am willing to trade services for advice and or help me set up!
Welcome!
To be honest I wouldn’t even worry about a proportioning system yet. Get your truck setup to wash houses and get some work under your belt and then decide if you want one. They’re handy but not a necessity.
You really don’t need hot water unless you’re going to be doing a lot of commercial concrete. I would just stick with the cold water 4 gpm to wash with. Get a small buffer tank so you can bypass when you’re off the gun. Get a GP High Draw injector, 250’ of pressure hose, 200’ supply hose, and a couple hose reels.
If you want to work out of the bed of your truck room will be tight so I wouldn’t use the compressor and stick to the 12 v system. You might not need one right away unless you plan on doing roofs. They’re good for pre and post treating concrete along with cleaning stucco and brick too.
Thank you for the feedback! So set up my Mitm 4gpm 4000 cold water in my truck, small buffer tank, 2 reels and downstream my chems batch mixed depending on what I am washing. I like the idea of keeping it simple until I get the feeling for what I am doing. I will be doing some houses on well water, so will a small buffer tank be ok for keeping up with needed water supply? I will spend today reading on what tips to get and hose and reel combinations. If you have any suggestions on those I’ll take them. Again thanks! If I can be any assistance to you in my area of knowledge please let me know!
Steve
Your 4gpm will draw water just fine without a buffer tank,even off 99% well’s. Your buffer tank is needed mostly just so you can recirculate your water back to buffer tank to keep pump cool when your off the trigger,or wash were water is unavailable . A 4gpm is on the smallest side of the ideal machine . most pros on here are running a 5.5gpm to an 8gpm. Your buffer tank should be at least 100 gallon imo,tractor supply,Menards,cause you’ll be upgrading soon. Get Hannay hose reels if you got the coin off Q spray .Or Cox if you don’t ,I get all my other stuff from Pressure Tek. Get 200’ of high pressure hose with a super or mosmatic swivel. Welcome, and good luck @Scox. Oo,and read your butt off ,you can’t possibly imagine how much great intel is on the PWRA.
Answer your phone.
Grizz,
Did you call my phone?
No haha hotshot has missed calls
@Hotshot Probably couldn’t talk cause he had that huge tuft of hair pulled up over his face and tucked into his glasses again.
Dont forget about the small things buckets,brushes, extra tips, a tool kits with the correct size sockets and wrenches for your machine. Extra o rings I like the viton ones. Go stainless if you can afford it. Get a few whip hoses for you reels. Water proof shoes
I’m also new(ish) and started with a 4gpm direct drive. It became painfully clear I needed a small buffer tank as at least four houses wouldn’t put out 3gpm from their spigots. It’s a miracle my pump didn’t spew parts everywhere.
Mine is a 65 gallon from TSC, haven’t come anywhere near running it low with my 5.5. I probably would have done fine with a 30 gallon to be honest.
Floor squeegee and/or sump pump. Better to have before you need, as I learned.
Tractor Supply will honor competitors prices including online companies. I got $150 off a 200 gallon leg tank.
Thanks for all the suggestions! Working on Buffer tank and reels right now.
A bed set up is definitely doable and can work great. I am currently working off a smaller trailer and about to upgrade although I’d love to stay small. Like the others said, stick with the 4gpm cold water machine and you will do fine. I would suggest a small buffer. You can get a 50 gallon vertical tank to save space if need be. I used a 50 gallon with a 5.5 and it was plenty. As far as a soft wash system goes, just down stream. Get a jrod set up from PressureTek and add a poly ball valve inline in your injector line and soap and rinse with your soap nozzles. If you eventually decide to do an actual soft wash system, I would say 12v. You have experience with 12v and its an easy set up. If you decide to go with a metering system, give Brian @LLSSJSSAS with Midwest Washing Equipment a call and he will gladly get you set up.
Thank all of you for the info, I feel much more confident about my first setup now. One thing, is my 4gpm machine going to limit the length pressure hose can use without loss of performance? I would like to run 250 if possible. I am ordering reels and hoses and wan’t to make sure I’m ok on length. You guys and this forum has been a godsend…
You should be fine. I have 200’ on my reels and it covers 98% of everything I do. I always keep a few 50’ sections on the trailer if I need to reach out a little further. I’ve yet to need anything more than 250’.
Buy good hoses yes they will cost you some up front but they will pay for themselves in the end. I like swivels on both sides. Make sure they are non marking
Thanks for info on the hoses, If you have any recommendations from experience I would love to hear it.
I really like the raptor blast r-1 hose. Goodyear makes good hose also. Those are the only two I use. Do you have a local hydraulic fitting store? You may want to check them out and just have it made. We run a 10’ whip line and 200 foot of solid. I keep a 2 50’ as spares or extensions. Oh and get a few in the field repair kits they may save you day if the hose breaks
