I have an AR 21669 unloader valve. The pump has no pressure so I was going to take the unloader out to see if I should fix it or replace it. Then I ran into this issue.
I twisted off the unloader and after the spring and handle came off there was no rod or anything like I have seen in the videos on YouTube or the pwra threads. Does anyone know how I can get the rest of the pieces out of my machine?
Does anyone know what this metal piece is? I think my unloader spring is suposed to push it down but it seems to be stuck in this position, I cant push it down with my finger or any tools.
Yeah so I am guessing thats where my problem lies, if I cant hammer that down, how is my spring ever going to be able to push it down from a simple twist?
Something similar happened to my smaller pressure washer…it had a direct drive CAT pump with unloader built into pump. I replaced it with an Udor pump and put my own unloader on. As others have said…don’t waste time trying to fix it…just get another pump without an unloader built in and put your own on
And if I may add, get a pump with a separate unloader that is fully plumbed. The Cat on my first machine had one integrated with the pump and I couldn’t run a return line to my buffer tank.
I decided I will buy a brand new pump with a seperate fully plumbed unloader at 5.5gpm, this is a 3gpm pump anyways, it is time to upgrade. Thank you for the help.
@Innocentbystander it’s not really a lie. It’s what hp it makes without any load on it. So factually it is a 13hp just not a usable 13hp. One of my drag cars has 660hp on an engine dyno but not at the wheels where it counts i can’t race it at 660hp because of drivetrain loss, tyres, driveshaft it all saps power. Same reason you lose power when you run your air conditioning on in your car. It’s up to the user to spec an engine to an application.
Lol, we all get that. It’s a lie though because manufacturers are allowed a certain percentage of leeway by the govt in advertising their specs. Same way vendors here claim to sell 8gon at 3500.