Thank ya !
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Coil was good, key switch was bad, not sending power to coil, So took new 3 wire style coil out, replaced with old trusty 1 wire coil plus exicter, now key switch will work to start ,but no way to shutting motor off. So put this in lol.
New key switch ordered ,But this will work for now. Thank yall for your help , Truly appreciated guys.
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Woohoo back up and running!
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I can’t wait for the review of the gun. We’re you able to get spare parts or do you just have to wait till it breaks before you can order new parts?
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@Hotshot wow the key switch was bad and it still turned over the motor. I have never had that happen. Learn something new everyday
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Glad you got it figured out! Now you can sit back, relax, and be happy you don’t have to deal with the project I just started working on.
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Nice to see you got it solved quick
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Same, but I’m not in a warm toasty shop. I was grinding and welding for hours on two coils while redoing their insulation. It was about 41 degrees the entire time.
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What trans is that?
I ordered extra parts, As in I bought 2 . Gonna run one and dissect the other, Pics to follow when I get it George.
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I hate working in the cold. I got to where I put those shake up hand warmers in the palm of my hands inside my gloves because my fingertips always get so cold. Those things make a world of difference. Were those coils just thin in spots or did they have holes? How thick are they?
That transmission is a 4l60e.
Yeah ,I feel better now after seeing all that carnage in your picture, Thanks for that.
Man that looks like a chore !
Oh no they’re plenty thick, they’re schedule 80. I have never repaired pipe in the coils just the baffles that occupy the holes in the pancakes on both sides.
Different truck but you get the idea. I go back with stainless on the baffles. And weld a 22 gauge stainless sheet on the bottom of the coil so they don’t ever sit on wet insulation. You lose coils from the outside in as far as rust is concerned, well that and movement, I pin the coils though to solve that.
Clutch, steel, clutch, steel, steel, clutch woops lol I’ll likely be tearing down a 4l80e in a few months. I have less and less time these days so I may just have to hire it out. I cringed just now saying that.
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I know what you mean. I hate hiring anything out. I think I’ve only hired two people in my life. Once to plaster a wall and match a texture and when we got a new furnace and a/c unit. It’s not always about saving money I just like learning and doing things on my own. I know that will change as my business grows and I have less time. If my transmission would’ve went out over the summer I probably would’ve had to hire it out or at least bought a remanufactured tranny. Luckily it happened about a week or two before my last job of the season.
I kind of wish I would’ve bought a 4l80e core to rebuild and just upgraded to it but I had already ordered all the parts for the 4l60e before I thought of it. Rebuild kit, shift kit, boost valve, new sun shell, etc. All the stuff that fixes the weak points. You can find cores for about $100. They have kits that you can buy to make them work.I think it’s mainly a wiring harness adapter. I’m sure there’s some other stuff but I don’t know much about it.
If you look on eBay you can find rebuilt 4l80e trannies for about $1400. They come with a 3 year warranty, a torque converter, and free shipping. Heck, I’ve seen used trannies from salvage yards priced at $1000 or more.
That stainless plate on the coils is a good idea. You seem to think of everything. Even the tiniest of details.
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Hey @Firefighter4hire you gotta PP right? Mine is heating water even while off trigger. Its getting way to hot , Thermostat? Or temp dial malfunction?
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@Hotshot if its making hot water when off the trigger your flow switch is stuck take cover off and move micro switch. Dont run it like that that’s exactly how it explodes
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Yes take small screws out micro switch inside it has a small plunger inside
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