Thanks. I added it on laat year.
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Looking good. Glad to help anytime and it was good meeting you. Best of luck
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Appreciate it. It was nice meeting you too.
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Found out I have bulging disks in my lower back (I’m 22… so not good). I decided that pulling around and loading/unloading the washer daily isn’t helping me what’s so ever fix my back pain.
Decided to hold off on the utility truck since I’m not quiet there and start off with a trailer build. Ill save for the truck with what I make with the trailer next year. I’ll be building it over the winter inside my garage. I picked up a brand new 12 ft tandem for a super deal. Only negative is that it has a dovetail but I can work around that or have a welder fix that straight for me. Since I’ll be adding a ladder rack I’ll make some welder friends or learn how to weld myself.
So, I’m a planner, I don’t like wasting money either. Since I’m quiet tech handy, I decided to make a 3D model of my trailer and add a ladder rack, reels, tanks, machine, etc. All to scale with the manufacture dimensions I found online. It will help me with weight distribution and making sure everything fits lol. So, here is a mockup. It’s rough but I didn’t feel like adding too many tiny details, not like I’m printing it! Lol.
Orange boxes are 18in electric Hannah’s
Grey box is 8.5 hydro max hot unit.
Blue is 200 gal water tank
Yellow is 100 gal SH tank
Pink is 7 gal soap tank
Black box in back for storage
Red Tubes are for guns w/lance and brooms/poles
Green thing on side is 12v pump and proportioner
Weld wise, I added a 4ft high ladder rack that clears my garage door, cut the tailgate down to 12 inches, cut out the 45 degree angle that goes from the nose to the front railing so it can make room for a tractor supply box to house the battery for the 12v and trickle charger and misc. Also a place to hang the 19 WW surface cleaner
If you have any opinions or just questions in general please comment!
Room under reels for hose runs
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How wide is trailer? Make sure you leave some room around wash unit for accessibility.
You really need to mount that proportioner on the other side for easier plumbing to the tanks. The way you have it set up will have too many 90’s to plumb it. With any plumbing think circle not square.
Including the wheel wells its 98 inches wide. The flooring is 74 1/2 inches wide.
I originally had a vertical SH tank with a smaller footprint but it was a cylinder and I couldn’t wrap my head around how to safely strap it down, so I went with loaf tanks with metal bands. That took out some space between the water tank and back of the hot unit. I’d have anywhere from 8-16 inches between the 2 to access the back of the unit… as far as getting it out, I’d have to drain and remove the tank
I could mount the proportioner anywhere, I saw this proportioner and 12v layout from southeast softwash and I like the curbside access ability. I’d use a T at the water tank outlet then spa hose and banjo filters, so only 90 (if I can help it) would be there.
I’ll relocate the proportioner to cut out the 90’s
What about flat bottom utility tanks? 55 gallons are 18x18”
I was debating getting the 55. Still an option. I thought It would be nice to drain a drum when the 100 gets close to empty without worrying if there was space for the whole drum to empty into the 100. That was my main reasoning for it. Plus can never go wrong having more chem. Adds more weight on the back as well which I fell would more evenly balance the trailer since the 1100 lb hot unit is in the front and the tank sits on but slightly infront of the axles
I’ll mockup the 55 gal on there as well. That will give me more room on the back end for storage and the ability to move the tank back over the axles for more access to the hot unit and weight distribution. I could move the reels forward some to help get 10-15% on the tongue 
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@TexasPressureWashing I added 2 55 gallon tanks, one for straight SH the other for DS mix unless i decide to go duel barb or figure out how to use the proportioner with the injector. Saved lots of space behind the washer for accessability and behind the SH tanks too for more storage.
@MuscleMyHustle I also changed the layout of the proportioner, decided to go with the pro-proportioner and the schertz box for remote DSing. This should cut out the 90’s.
Since I relocated the proportioner, it made room for a 24 in underbody tool box on the rails to house a battery and the 12v pump to keep it out of the elements
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Think about where you want that Proportioning box. It’s a busy place because you’ve got 4 hoses coming in and 1 out the back, either from bottom or out the back. So figure out a place that it easily accessible and where you can route all the hoses neatly. They’ll be coming out of the top of all your tanks, plus you’ll have at least 1 - 3 way on SH valve to flush it with. And if you’re using more than one soap you’ll need 3 way for the incoming on it also, but I wouldn’t bother. I never use my other soap tank.
@Racer I’d like everything to be curb side. I could
probably organize the hose to run down along the ladder rack railing and along the flooring to meet with the other hoses. I have some thinking to do. Probably end up sketching this on paper to get a better idea and I’ll share that with you guys.
I plan to run slo-mo in the 7 gal. Diluted enough so the proportioner works correctly.
I created a 3D model and screen recorded it so all of you can view it. This is the layout i plan to have. Most of the hose connections will be ran under the hose reels on the curbside.
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DJPWS, The trailer set up looks great and I am building a similar trailer (6x12). A little different layout, but close. Why do you have a house mix & SH tank? Since you are installing a proportioner, you can adjust your mix to a house mix. Just curious as I am trying to get ideas for my set up.
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Good question, I have SH, soap, and water all separate for the proportioner system. I know I could use a duel barb injector so I can downstream the SH and soap for the house wash those are pricy and we replace injectors so often I decided not to go duel barb. The Mix tank would allow me to do a single barb injector.
Now I’ve seen someone who was able to use their proportioner system and connect it to their DS injector and it pulled the sh and soap when using their low pressure tips.
Here’s the video link to that.
Video link
But I have room for 2 tanks so for now I have the 2 tanks. It also allows me to use a different soap like elemonator for the house and then have a separate soap tank for slomo for roofs and other things
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Just put this on top of your SH tank drop tube and step down to 1/4" for your injector tubing. I got the idea from @Patriotspwashing and it’s worked great for two seasons now. Sure, I waste a little money in surfactant when I do roofs (which isn’t very often) by premixing elemonator with my SH, but the convenience is totally worth not having another tank on board to serve basically the same purpose.
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Not sure how this helps draw soap and SH from separate tanks. My goal is to have a house wash mix ready to go into the injector and the ability to separately mix soap water and sh for stucco and roofs and concrete, etc
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Have one meter valve, one ball valve. One sh tank and add soap to it. Use metered ds injector to pull from the sh/soap tank for ds. For 12v meter valve in sh/soap line and ball valve line in buffer tank. Ball valve stay wide open most of the time. If you plan on doing a roof, just add more surfactant. Just a thought.
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