If you are using them to stop and start water that’s fine. A lot of guys use them to soap and rinse with. They are not designed for that. I think you misunderstand the dropping them. I’m talking accidents. I’ve had hoses slide down stairwells, slide down roofs, had a car snag a hose and drag it 20 feet. An open ball valve or closed ball valve that opened wpuld not have been good. I just can’t think of any good reason to have one. If you like yours, great. I’m fine being in the minority
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ahh okok. thank you
Did a little work this morning. Got my 75’ Flexzilla hose on and my fittings on my supply reel.
It did not come with the bolt to hold the crank handle on, and the locking pin was too long and would lock no matter what unless it was resting on the outer edge, where it obviously won’t hold itself. I pulled it off and took a grinder to it to shorten it up. Now it’s just right. It was difficult getting everything aligned when I put it back on though. Would have been easier with another person with some hand to help hold things in place ( for assisting, a person with no hands would have been useless in this specific situation).
Other than that, everything looks like it’ll work great for my needs and budget. The pressure reel should arrive today, and then I’ll see about getting mounts welding for curbside railing. At least I’m planning on curbside railing. Once I get both reels on, I’ll see what they look like at the back too, then see if I still think curbside would be best.
Also showing the other fittings I’ll be using, and the stainless barb I put on the pump. If you look at the garden hose connection that came off the pump, you can see the screen filter is actually partially covered by some sort of black rubber. Kinda weird. I’m looking forward to getting things plumbed up this way. It’ll be way more convenient than how I have been doing things.
If you didn’t have the " some kind of black rubber thing"… Then your hose would leak…
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Welcome to the high quality world of cox reels. Next time don’t behind the bolt. Move the lock to the right. You are going to have tons of friction loss with all those fittings and screens.
It is as you said it would be.
Also, the lock still locked when slid all the way over. The disc on that side is curved out at one point. It’s not true, so to speak. So one hole stick out more towards then pin anyway lol.
Friction loss sounds good. I assume you mean friction gained? By what fittings and screens? Only one screen, it will be the 3/4 banjo y strainer, and the only 90 will be the swivel.
No I dont… Is it not a 1 piece molded part? This is why I tell bepole to put in a better strainer before the pump, and remove that screen… Then just use a normal hose washer to connect the hose…
I dont have electric start, so I have to be able to pull start. I don’t want the exhaust near my hoses as some of you recently pointed out in another trailer thread. I think the PW might work well there. Hose reels on curbside rail. Buffer tank to go centered abide the axle when I get that.
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It’s just weird. I didn’t think there was rubber melted onto part of the screen itself. I’m putting a y strainer in so that should be better. I don’t think I’ll need any washer because I’m going to use a hose to the barb I installed.
Do you have a drill?
That’s what I said.
Drill out the hole with a step bit and slide the lock over. If you shorten the pin it will be to short later to connect when the side start caving in. I was referring to the screen in the hose you showed a pic of. Only one wrap of teff tape needs to be on the fittings. Looks like you have plumbers putty or some blue gunk on one barb. You need to pay a welder $50 to put you a brace on the backside of the reel. It is flimsy at best and now it is only secured on one half of its base
On the cox reels that lock can be adjusted quite a bit. Had the same problem.
On my next set my two flexzilla hoses will be connected to each other and the reel with the option of unhooking one if I don’t need all 200’ or unhooking from the reel if water from the bib is too slow for my liking.
There will be an option to unhook the reel from the tank inlet and hook directly to the tank inlet via gator locks or hook up two feed hoses all using gatorlocks/banjo fittings.
Might consider a similar set up before you bolt everything up.
Throw out the screens. Your filter will do.
I swear all of you think I’m retarded lol. It’s only slightly offensive though. The reel is not mounted. It’s just resting there for me to see what it looks like lol. My landlord and his buddy do welding so they said they’d help me weld up mounts, but I’m waiting until both reels are in to ask them to come help me out.
The PTFE tape and thread sealer is hit or miss. You guys say one wrap of PTFE tape. Rex at PWProducts says no tape ever, only thread sealer, and the plumbers at my job who fit pipe and fittings for 10 hours a day for a living said they will put sealer, then PTFE tape, then a bit more sealer on it. I’ve come to the conclusion that as long as it doesn’t bind when threading it in, and as long as it doesn’t leak afterwards, it’s probably okay but wrong in someone else’s book lol.
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Thanks for sharing your plans. And I’m not keeping the screen lol. I really was just posting a photo to show what came out of the fitting that came on my pump, that’s all. 
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Say no more.
Thanks! I do appreciate every suggestion. It’s just that when multiple experience people all say the right way is different than what the other experienced person said, it must just be preference. Maybe lol. What do I know. I design electrical control panels all day.
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The tape is not sealer, it is used to reduce friction on tapered fittings so they can be tightened enough to not not leak. The sealer is used for PVC and iron pipe which is not tapered. At least that’s what my Grandad taught me and he was a lifelong pipe-fitter with the union who built everything from the Panama Canal to hydro electric plants.
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Depends what fittings you are using and what you are trying to do. Some PW hoses have flared fittings on them in which case you don’t need tape to make a water right seal. Then it depends if you are trying to make a water tight seal, or using dope to prevent threads from rusting or fusing together or trying to get the joints to not come apart. Most of the time. I will use both if I am working on threads that I don’t want to leak and I know that at some point I want to take them apart to change something. Then it depends if heat is going through it… But hey don’t use nothing… Just tighten the hell out of it. Hack saws and nipple removers are cheap and easy to work with…
