I’ve read countless threads about buffer tanks. Twice in the same week I tried to hook up my 4200/4.0 direct drive to a faucet only to discover the flow wasn’t enough.
Here’s my trailer, thinking of adding a buffer tank here.
Tractor Supply has a 35 gallon in stock, would that work or should I go bigger? Would it even work with my machine?
Direct drive pumps don’t pull water like a belt or gear drive so you’ll need gravity to force feed your drive drive pump. I don’t think 35 gallons will be enough gravity force to feed that pump. You can pick up IBC totes for cheap…even $50. You can set your Hudson float valve to stop at 75-100 gallons. The bulkheads on those are 2 inches which you can reduce down to 1 inch hose going into the pump.
There’s others that have direct drive machines hooked up to a buffer tank and are successful…most use a well thought out gravity design though.
Do you do many homes with wells?
No wells, just old 100yo houses with (usually) a single spigot that is severely undersized and probably restricted by mineral buildup. People restore these houses and put the vinyl siding on them.
I work at TSC i got the 65 gallon tank for $150 plus my discount so $135. https://www.tanksforless.com/p/987/65-gallon-norwesco-horizontal-leg-tank-45191
Print that out and bring it with you for a price match.
I like that horizontal leg tank, i have a belt driven 4gpm 4000psi machine so not sure about the gravity feed but @anon82972966 had smaller tank with a direct drive pump before had well water issues like you.
Look at the link i posted. Its the same brand and all of the one they sell. Print it out and go to tractor supply with it and ask for a price match.
Man you came along way from that truck bed setup you had at first.
Ok, I need to clarify my setup. Right now I have to wheel around my machine to the house, can’t just leave it in the trailer like everyone else on here. I guess a buffer tank just isn’t going to work for me.
Why cant you leave it? Not enough hose?
I’d have to run the water hose from their spigot in the back yard to the front driveway where we have to park, then water hose to machine then pressure hose back to the back yard down the steep hill. Crazy.
That’s what we all do lol
Yeah, but you’re not rolling the machine down a grassy 30% grade I’m assuming. The older parts of town are built into hillsides.
No he meant the hoses. Leave you machine in the trailer and get you 200 feet of each hose. Draging hose is easier than a 250# machine,hose and you chems. If
Good point. Dragging this 85# machine around is getting old.
@Grizz That’s why i’m the up and comer lol. Im not out here to play games brah. Lollllll thanks tho, I’ve put a lot into my business since I joined pwra… wish i found this place sooner!
I need an honest opinion…with a direct drive 4.0gpm, am I wasting my time with a buffer tank? Don’t want to spend more money on this project if it’s not going to work. I have customers lined up but their water source is weak and would probably fry my pump. Maybe I could hook up a 12v pump.
Yes… 125 gallon leg tank or a 55 gallon drum. ( a 35 gallon leg tank probably won’t work. You wa t gravity working on your side.
Use 3/4 in spa hose and go straight from tank to washer.
Take your washer off the cart and mount to a skid. Buy one, make one, or do whatever you gotta do. Getting rid of the wheels will help with gravity as well.
Why don’t you just run two hoses to your machine?
Two hoses, as in two separate spigots? These houses are so old they only have one spigot. I know, it’s annoying.
@Patriotspwashing I’m looking at a 65 gallon TSC leg tank for $150, could mount that to the tongue and possibly add an electric booster pump if I still can’t get enough pressure. Harbor Freight has one for $80. Fortunately the one thing they DO have is an electrical outlet.
