Need help with my f-350 front brakes

Way Off Topic
1

I’ve got a 2017 f-350 dually and i replaced the front pads, calipers and mount, rotors and brakes hoses. I’ve bleed the systems about 5,000 times but when you press the brake, the caliper piston will not retract causing the brakes to overheat. It seems as something upstream, like the abs module or something isn’t letting the oil back when i release the pedal.

Any thoughts other than having it “stolen” from the driveway? I’ve getting backlogged because this damn truck is down. This is why i worked on heavy equipment, i HATE working on cars.

Someone be my prince in shining armor please.

2

Pump the brakes a couple of times. Don’t hold them down like when you are bleeding them. Go crack the drain. If brake fluid just dribbles out then your problem is on the brake side. Slides have a crease and aren’t allowing travel, shim is to wide, caliper bolts had trash on them etc. But it’s on the brake side. If the fluid squirts out with pressure then the problem is on the side between the line and the reservoir. Pinched line, abs controller, usually the jumper line gets pinched and the inner liner breaks lose and clogs the line.

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3

I’d have to side with the problem being on the side between the line and the reservoir. Everything at the wheel is new, not to say that new stuff isn’t sometime bad but I’ve had multiple new parts to rule that out. This didn’t happen before i changed the brakes, so something new has happened. I wonder is a seal or oring in the master cylinder didn’t roll over or something causing this issue.

4

And it is equally happening on both street side and curbside. So what ever is messed up is something they both share in common

5

Did it squirt or dribble when you opened it? That’s you tell sign. Brake fluid is in a closed loop. You shouldn’t have had to bleed brakes changing pads.

6

I changed the calipers and the flex hoses from the caliper to the hard line, so it had to be bled.

7

Then maybe trash in the lines from opening the system. Nope, I got no other suggestions. Sometimes it’s cheaper to take it to the shop then work on it yourself replacing everything.

8

no joke, i’ve got an appointment at the shop down the street on monday. Let him figure it out

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9

Get back to us with the fix.

10

The slides on the calipers are hanging up, it’s a common problem on super duty trucks. The brake dust and grime just seizes them up enough they will not retract on their own. I disassemble them and add blue monster to the slides and make sure the dust covers aren’t torn. Then you should be good to go.

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11

You are talking about pipe thread sealer Blue Monster? If that is case never use any thing like that on brakes systems.

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Nickel based anti-seize is what you want, blue monster is one of many brands. Yea, you shouldn’t put a pipe thread sealant on brakes :rofl:

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13

the pins are new and freshly greased.

14

Sell it and buy a Chevy.

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15

Lol just kidding. I think you’re on the right track with the ABS module. I know on GM products if you open the system like that you have to reset the ABS module. This can be done with a ridiculously expensive scanner system at the shop or you can find a local gravel road and run it up to about 30 then slam on the brakes. Do again up to 40. Then again up to 50. By pulsing the ABS through heavy braking it works the air out of the ABS module.

Yours being a Ford, I have no idea if they operate the same or not.

16

May be blocked compensation port is the only other thing I can imagine

17

Yeah, i thought about replacing the master cylinder because it’s $200 vs over $1,000 for the abs module. Its going to a shop on monday to let them figure it out. I’m done throwing money at it and i need this truck back up an running asap

18

You may have to replace the rubber line from the caliper back to the steel line. They break down and shrink on the inside.

19

Bad brake lines.

20

All the brakes hoses have been changed. It’s 99% gotta be the ABS module trapping air. Because on these awesome, easy to repair new trucks, you have to have a good scanner to actuate the abs valves to properly bleed it.

If anyone has a clean 1 ton diesel from the 1990s please let me know!

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