Yeah, I have a 40 lb tank, just cause I had it around. Would love to get one of those mini tanks you see on floor buffers or small forklifts.
5.5gpm might be a bit much depending on what size heater you got. I think a 2 or 3 gpm pump would be plenty for a camp, and ideal for a 5 Liter/minute heater. You won’t have the massive flow loss with indoor plumbing as you would with a softwash pump pushing through 200’ of hose.
It’s what I had at the time. It’s been going for 3 years now. I do gate it down to save on hauling water down there though.
That’s baloney hotshot, don’t believe what the vendors or salesman tell you, it goes against all basic thermal dynamic codes when buffer tanks are involved, I’ve been in club level Motorsports for over 35 years where engine life and critical tolerances are measured in hours not mileage and would get laughed out of the workshop if I ever brought up dual feeding a pump for any gain in efficiency and longevity for factory set specifications. If someone can prove me wrong I’ll wire them $1000, it’s in writing here 
. Thers just so much BS out there it’s hard to let people read this stuff and not say anything.
There’s no way I’m pulling a @Dago52 and gluing my pump on with RTV. No matter what Udor says 
So what does everyone recommend for a good anti-seize compound? Should I be looking for copper based? Marine grade? Something else?
Also @Dago52, did the gkc come with the mounting bolts to mate it to the igx? Or did the motor come with them?
And does the igx have a fuel return line?
Yeah I thought as much back when I heard it @MuscleMyHustle , glad a gear head such as you shed light on it though. 
The mounting bolts cam with the pump. And there is no return line on the IGX800 back to the fuel tank.
After thinking more about the silicone idea, it makes sense to keep water out. The corrosion is created when water is allowed to seep in between the housing & shaft. If I used anti-seize, then I would have made it a habit to remove the pump then reapply on my maintenance schedule.
Thanks
My thought on that is the anti-seize is sort of like a grease, and should repel water.
If keeping water out completely was such a concern, I would think there’d be a gasket between the gearbox and the engine mounting surface, itself.
I do think I’ll probably dismount the pump once a year and reapply some more anti-seize. It can’t hurt.
The issue I see with using the RTV, is the shear amount of surface area involved. Trying to break that bond is not going to be easy, imo. I could see doing a 1/4” band of sealant around the base of the shaft, but coating the entire shaft in it doesn’t seem right to me. 
The way Udor explained it to me, is the anti-seize will breakdown with the heat & high rpms. From my research, the biggest problem with gear drives was removing the pumps that were seized to the shaft. I did see one guy on Youtube make a gasket to fit between the gearbox & engine. I don’t think there is a right or wrong way to mount the pump, I chose to go with the recommendation from Udor.
Side note, the IGX is very thirsty with fuel. I would estimate around 1.5- 1.7 GPM.
I was afraid you might confirm that. I ordered the iGX700, since my local distributors didn’t have the 800 in anything other than the 1 7/16” shaft size.
I’m sort of hoping for a TSB from Honda, or an aftermarket tune pack that addresses the fuel consumption issue.
The idle up feature like Kohler would be nice.
Copper anti-seize works great. I had no issues sliding a pump off after 2 years. Even if the engine gets rained on I just don’t see how water is going to get in there to make it rust. Udor must want people to have to buy a new pump after they break the aluminum housing trying to get it off. 
The only way they can ever get repeat business, since their pumps will last forever otherwise 
Yes, sir! Thank you!
Got rain coming on Monday. Hoping to get the new pump on then with the down time.
They dont mess around and usually provide candy and a coupon with your order. 
He/she is just quoting the UDOR documentation, page51 in the PDF
Ha, proof positive that the Udor Engineers’ word can’t be taken as gospel 
Trying to source drain hoses/ ez drain kits for all parts of the machine.
Does anyone know the thread sizes for the drains on:
iGX 700 (I would assume it stayed the same as the other GX V-Twins?)
Udor Gearbox
Udor pump (on second thought, I probably don’t need a valve for the pump. What’s the interval after break-in, like 1000 hours?)
I’m leaning toward the Fumoto or EZ Oil Drain Valves
I like the Fumoto valves. I have one on my Duramax and it makes draining 2.5 gallons of diesel oil a breeze. No spill, no mess, my dainty hands stay sparkly clean and I don’t have to rush for a manicure immediately afterwards.
