I use that stuff on my snowblower. It’s good stuff. Leaves a coating of wax on.
Are you going to put a ladder rack on?
Yeah. I’ll be having something fabricated similar to this. Front part will bolt to the headache rack. Back end will have its own frame, which I’m thinking will support my vertical chem tank. The two ends will be tied together with a horizontal piece, and will have my PVC pole holder, and hangers/hooks for spare hoses. Depending on how the measurements work out, I may also attach the horizontal piece(s) to the top of my stacking reels for added reinforcement.
I’ll eventually have a matching rack on the driver’s side, which would also allow me to add removable cross bars if I ever have the need.
I’m thinking of using stainless jacknuts/rivet nuts like these for attaching a lot of my stuff to the bed:
I’ve also used jack nuts like these before, but I can’t seem to find a stainless version at a reasonable cost:
I know these won’t provide the same strength as bolting through the bed with reinforcement plates on the under-side, so I would be doubling my mounting points to distribute the load.
Aluminum is soft. Those will eventually wallow out. Nothing beats a nut, bolt and large washers. They don’t have to be stainless. Regular bolts will last as long as the equipment will. When you replace, just cut the bolts with a cut off wheel.
Doesnt aluminum and steel cause rust?
I agree with IBS. Use bolts. In the scope of things considering what all you’re buying, I’d go with stainless though. My Ace has a great selection and I’ve always used the SS on my trailer. Probably less than $100 for everything. When you’re running a $600 reel, or whatever those 18" electric Hannays run, $10 -$12 to bolt it down correctly is chump change.
You loaded a pic of three goats and a palm tree
I wouldn’t use those in that application. Regular old nuts and bolts would be safer and stronger. I’d use grade 8 for mounting equipment to a flatbed for safety reasons but some people might think that would be overkill.
You’re probably thinking of galvanic corrosion, when two different metals are in contact in a corrosive environment. One of the metals will experience an accelerated corrosion rate.
I think so.
I just bought a aluminum tool box for my trailer and my welder told my that he will need to use rubber bushings to bolt it down after welding a frame.
Thanks for the feedback guys. I will be going with stainless bolts and fender washers, or possibly even backing plates if I can find something that will work well.
Stainless hardware is a must for this build, imo. It’s non-reactive,
so no galvanic corrosion.
edit: looks like I may be mistaken in my thinking here
I think that a power wash rig with occasional bleach spills and fumes would definitely qualify as a “marine type environment”
And I don’t have a garage, so the most protection this rig will have from the New England weather and road salt will be a tarp/fitted canvas and regular washing.
@Racer, the Titan electric reels were $560 the 1/2” stainless manifold, and I think around $650 for the 1” iron manifold.
You are going to love the 1" it’s amazing the difference in flow
Unless he uses an isolated mount with studs coming out of each side you will still have steel touching aluminum at the end of the bolt.
He can just use plastic washers and/or coat the fasteners with “Topside” corrosion paint or “Neverwet” or something similar. At this point we are kind of way over thinking it. It’s not a structural platform that extends from a building. It’s just bolting stuff to a flatbed, lol.
Agreed. I just wanted to be sure he knew that bolts still make the contact.
I wasn’t picking on your comment, just kind of laughing about how we can go down the rabbit hole sometimes.
I didnt think you were. I can be too deep into things sometimes and it’s like over engineering something for minuscule gains.