I'm back... Any help appreciated

Yeah for sure, definetly need more practice. But I feel like I can finally start practicing cause now it’s starting to work, I ran five gallons of liquid chlorine 10.8 (usually have 12.5 SH) and I used 21 ounces of snotmenade and it literally tore threw the dirt.

My only problem now is that I was spraying to straight up and I guess water got stuck in behind the vinyl and bled out as it dried. See picture below. I was told to stand back more and to not hit under the vinyl or go against the vinyl. I had to go back and wash this off but in the end… It was done man! My first real successful house wash I would say. Definetly could have gone faster but I’m not worried about speed right now. My pricing needs to change I charged three townhouses that were connected 240$ each for house wash and exterior window cleaning with screen cleaning and a driveway wash off (just sprayed the dirt to the street nothing special)

Took me 5.5 hours but it was the most I have made so far but I’m sure everyone here would have charged a hell of a lot more… Hopefully one day but my work is so hit and miss right now that I can’t charge what the pros do. One day.

20180523_155902|374x500

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I don’t hate it one bit, I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one. I run straight 12%, and never pre-wet either, unless there is a elaborate flower Bed or wood. Some homes that I clean are terrible and I could not imagine cutting my mix

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Don’t worry about “Pro Pricing” especially not your hourly rate for a while.

Pro hourly rate is higher with:

  • experience that helps you do a job quicker
  • more powerful machines that help you clean more are per hour
  • not having to come back the next day cos you left marks behind!

Pricing is also higher because of things like:

  • the implied guarantee that makes a customer feel confident when they hire a professional
  • a higher standard of work, to be expected because of experience
  • liability insurance, part expense, part marketing aid that gives Customer peace of mind

In a nutshell… get the quality right, get experience, gain some confidence… get some more customers… then start worrying if your price is correct.

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As a manufacturer of these types of products I have to say, WE WRITE THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR A REASON!

PSA over :slight_smile:

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I feel pretty fortunate then after reading all the straight 12.5% comments. I use a 5.25% bleach I get at a farm store (because 12.5 is 4 bucks a gallon here) and use that straight with some Secret Agent cling and some Eleamonator and boom!, 5-7 min later and it’s melting faster than I can rinse it. You’all are either wasting a whole bunch of product or you’re dealing with some nasty mold and mildew.

7 Minutes later… 5.25% straight with a 10-1 injector ratio.

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Didn’t you have to buy a couple trees for a mega church?

Couple of bushes. That was from the 12v though. 3% mix. I always prewet and wet again during the dwell. Missed two out of 100.

Never down streaming

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That house turned out unreal Steve wow

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LOL, I thought that was going light. 1oz per gal is recommended for direct app and what I use on roofs if not slightly stronger. Downstreaming with 10-1 in theory you’d need 10oz per gal, but from experience can go a little less.

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Always do a real light final rinse after it’s partially dried and had time to run out from a distance.

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Seeing this article, this may have been part of your problem. Do you have hard water up there.
http://www.powerwash.com/articles/hard-water-silent-pickpocket.html?utm_source=PowerWash.com&utm_campaign=776fb933be-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_05_18&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_704325067b-776fb933be-175900549&ct=t()&goal=0_704325067b-776fb933be-175900549&mc_cid=776fb933be&mc_eid=1e0cf95c98

Yeah we have some hard water but I test the water before I use it. I have a waterfed pole system that came with one so I’m always checking. This house had fantastic water. I think your right though I went back and hit the spot that had dried with just water and all of that stuff came off. I need to stand back and hit at a more straight angle and then make sure to wash again if need be, those streaks are from holes in the vinyl that get rid of water I’m fairly sure. The soap was the reason racer thank you, it wasn’t clinging to the surface allowing the mix to do its job… Now it sticks right to it.

Mix that worked for me

DS 5 gallons of 10.8 liquid chlorine
21 ounces of snotmenade

I got that article in my inbox today.

I can’t believe they’re telling pressure washers to take water samples to a lab for analysis!

WCRA sell TDS Meters for like $17. Everywindow cleaner who has a Pure Water system uses these daily.

It’d make more sense for these guys to sell these cheap little gizmos than recommend lab samples!

Also… 3 grains, >60ppm won’t do sh#t to your soap. It’ll be up around 200ppm before you notice a difference. Even then, the main problem will be mineral buildup over time in your hot water boiler… not the effect on your soap

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https://shopwindowcleaningresource.com/water-fed-poles-systems/meters.html

Apparently the price has gone up a bit, still waaaaaay cheaper than a lab test. Plus you can use it whenever you want!

Yep, I have one. Our TDS here is around 25 so not a big worry for us. I’ve never had to deal with. He’s up in Canada, so had no idea what his was.

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25! 25!! 25!!!

By $turnover I’m still mostly a window cleaner.

Do you know how much money I’d save if my TDS was 25!!

Atleast you’ll never have to worry about streaky windows after pressure washing. They must turn out close to perfection after a good rinse!

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I have considered throwing a couple of Salt rocks in the buffer tank for this matter, does anyone think this should work or not? I didn’t try though, have no equipment yet.

Meh I honestly didn’t find they got that clean! A lot of new first customers with windows this year which is great… But first cleans can be brutal. Me and my steel wool and razr blades have been best friends :frowning:

There are things that you can put in any water solution that will assist you GREATLY with hard water. We call them Chelators. Does anyone have access to:

EDTA (39%)- (Liquid) Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid - Wikipedia
Sodium Gluconate (powder) Sodium gluconate - Wikipedia
NTA (Powder) http://doc.ccc-group.com/msds/english/651100.pdf

If you get the powder you want to mix it with water before you go throwing it into SH. I know they say they are acids but it won’t affect your SH

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