4 grade 8 bolts is well within the limitations of that unit, from memory there rated to well over 100,000 pounds per square inch tensile strength meaning maximum load in tension “stretching” that a part can carry without snapping. The more important thing to worry about and pay attention to is what you are bolting that machine too with that hardware, if your are bolting it through a wooden floor grade 8 bolts don’t mean anything to you.
2 Likes
No, I would occasionally run some thru them. Though I haven’t been great about doing it regularly on my trailer and other than running dirty for about 10 sec when I do flush it, seems to be ok.
Those are the small 30amp. Mine went out one day while running, thought I was out of gas. Guess there’s a reason they went ahead and put the pigtail on it.
Oxygen is not present inside the coil. You need not worry about rusting from the inside out. All coils fail from rust that started on the outside working it’s way in. When cold water is heated the exterior of the pipe/coil will sweat, saturating the kaowool. This keeps the coil wet on the outside well after it’s been used. I drill many holes on the bottom of the stainless steel wrap/housing so the condensate has somewhere to exit rather than just sitting there against the pipe. That alone adds many years to a coil.
3 Likes
Right on. The tips I’ve seen so far
-
use a wide, solid structure material such as a steel plate on each side of the bolt points for added strength when bolting the machine down to the boards. The bolts won’t give, it’s the wood that will. Adding the steel plates or something of that nature (even a lawnmower blade) will secure it better and give the machine less chance of detaching and causing damage.
-
keep extra fuses on hand so you are prepared to replace the bad one if/ when it blows.
-
drilling holes at the bottom of the steel outer body of the heater allows condensed water to escape, resulting in longer lasting coils.
-
adding valves to the gas lines are great for maintenance and winterizing reasons
-
to have less flow restriction when the heater isn’t required, it’s a good idea to add a bypass to divert the flow directly from the water to the hose instead of having it travel through the heater.
If you decide to drill the housing wait until the coil is out for new insulation or you’re welding in a new baffle. Obviously it’s much safer to drill through it when the housing is empty 
2 Likes
Lol I agree
You’re going to absolutely love it. Are you going with the Honda or Kohler?
I bypassed the coil when not using it on my old hot water unit. I just used quick connects so I could swap hoses around. PWP has some high pressure 3 way valves that are reasonably priced. I think I’ll go with valves instead of swapping hoses.
I’ll be getting the DC8540KG system 12v option. It comes with the 749 kohler. Randy at BCE already knows I want the ZK1 installed and a rain shield for the heater exhaust. Since BCE builds that model to order (unlike the Honda’s which are already build ready for ship) I’m going to ask if he can have the holes at the bottom of the heater drilled, put valves on the gas lines, and install a bypass. It’s already going to be a custom order so might as well ask if he can do one or two more things for me lol. I’ll let y’all know what I was able to get added and for how much
2 Likes
Do you mind sharing a photo ? I can imagine it’s either precision drilled holes all equally spaced or like a blind man shot a automatic at it lol
No, I don’t have a pic. I can only drill about 20 until I give up. Drilling stainless is no joke. They’re just holes, nothing more complicated than that.
1 Like
You’ll like the Kohler. It’s thirsty but has plenty of power. I decided on the Kohler based on @florida_condo_cleani saying he gets 5000+ hours out of them versus about 3500 out of a Honda. The Honda also has a plastic cam gear. I don’t think you can go wrong with either the Honda or Kohler though. They’re both great engines. The ECH749 is fuel injected which is kind of neat. I like the simplicity of a carburetor but fuel injection is the future. Being that we have fuel injection we should be able to add a remote start if we wanted. 
Not sure it would be useful but why not?,…lol
1 Like
Just got the reels today, looking sharp
I’ll be building the rig over the winter so I have some time to do things the right way. I’m excited to use an 8 gpm next season!
I was going to go Honda but decided it’s just accouple house washes more for a better engine
4 Likes
There both great commercial engines, I would retire either one at 3000 hours, and put a new one in and sleep well at night. 5000 vs 3500 hours is purely a measure of how there used and quality of lubricants, I don’t see Kohler being that far ahead in reliability on a mass scale, there’s only so much you can do to these engines internally to make them last the rest would come down to maintenance and loads.
I fully plan to utilize the service manual and keep this investment running smooth. These units don’t come with a hour meter correct ?
Mine did on the Honda model
Mine did on the Kohler.
1 Like
Okay guys, just ordered my unit ! Talked to Randy about the suggestions and here’s what he had to say
for their hot units, That type of coil in the heater doesn’t sweat. No need for holes.
Adding valves on the gas lines is a terrible idea. Never want to cut the gas to the pump as it can cause issues and for winterizing, just use seafoam. No need to empty the lines.
Bypassing the coils is dangerous. If someone turns on the burner without water through it then within a minute it will cause a disaster inside, fire, and an easy thousand in damage. They won’t do a bypass because of those reasons.
I know I’m missing key words but that sums it up basically.
3 Likes
Not sure about the valves, most small engines have them to begin with, have a Honda mower with one on it now. I guess the engineers got it wrong all these years. It’s like running out of gas, that’s it, once a year. I think Randy just don’t want to fool with it, maybe I’m wrong. Do what you feel is best for you, regardless.
