I bought this gas powered 4.2 GPM pressure washer last year. The unloader valve is not separate and attached to the whole piece of the pump so I cannot uninstall it. I’d like to purchase a water tank and connect it to this pressure washer. I’d also like to have the water recirculate so in case I leave the pw in bypass mode the pump doesn’t overheat. Is this possible to do on this pw? How would you guys start plumbing this. thanks.
Yes , got pics ?
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Looks like it has an internal bypass
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What is the model # of pump?
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Ahh
, internal bypass, Sorry man I don’t think you can . But you asked on your other thread that you want to install a DS , you can do that , just put that on your pressure side out via a male plug then DS then female QC then your hose. I’m seeing duct tape around an old DS injector maybe? If so plug it…
Let me bring in @dperez on the bypass and ask for his opinion, he will give better advice on that.
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@cclean just buy a replacement 4gpm pump with an external unloader if your going to use this for business. Problem with used is you don’t know what your getting and most homeowners 95% of the time don’t have a clue how this stuff works. And let it sit idling for extended periods of time.
There are two brass plugs on that unloader. One is a hex head plug and one is a counter sunk plug. One or both will flow bypassed water, try them one at a time then replace with a brass barb adapter.
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Yes the model number is RSV4G40 316370
Will have to buy replacement if its the only choice I got. Didn’t want to spend more money on the pw. Yes I agree I didn’t know either when I made the purchase. Just knew I needed to get my hands on a 4 GPM minimum and it looked like a steal for $400.
FINALLY a thread where I know what to do. Lol. Ok so I tried the taping into the brass plugs like @dperez said on one I had that is internal bypass. It wont work. The pump will keep building pressure until shut off. What you have to do is remove the female QC. Inside you should find a plunger like piece(this is the internal unloader), remove that and replace your QC. Remove the barb for your injector and install a brass plug. Then buy another unloader w/bypass (you can find a decent one cheap on Amazon for $30) and connect it with QC to your pump, run your bypass off that. Buy a new injector and connect it.
Then have fun spraying water. Remember to turn the pressure all the way up on your unloader that is on the pump then adjust pressure with your new unloader.
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I can send some pix in a bit
Yes that is what I was hoping can be done. Great I will try exactly that then. This should help, thanks for the timely response.
I’m with you on everything else but the quote. I’m just now remembering reading that thread. I have no experience with homeowner machines…zero, zilch, nada. So you said the pump would keep building pressure until it comes out of the relief valve. The only way it would come out of the relief valve is if the unloader was detective and the pressure surpassed the relief valve set pressure. So I’m taking it yours was defective right?
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Sry your right. That is wrong. It will build pressure till it locks up. Or atleast that’s what happened on mine. Worked perfectly after I did what I posted. I’m going to edit that. My bad.
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No worries man but I think with yours not unloading it warranted the need to gut it. I do believe he will flow bypassed water out of one or both of those plugs. Quick and easy to check with a rag wrapped around it. I hope he checks now that I’m curious.
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I here ya. But I tried it on a brand new machine so I doubt it was a bad pump or defective unloader. I think it’s just the way internal bypass works
He won’t flow bypass water. Those plugs run into the pump and will build pressure up to what ever the unloader is set to. Ask me how I know. Lol.
You got me I give… I’ve never touched a built in unloader. Question though why were you trying to eleminate a good unloader for another good unloader and put them after one another. I’m so confused
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Only way to get a bypass. Trust me I tried EVERYTHING else before this. Same thought I had (an unloader after an unloader) but it worked great all last year.
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After looking again I would add that the hex head brass plug is high pressure to give the builder another option on which side the hp is to exit to accommodate various setups. I’d pull the counter sunk head first lol
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