Any of you guys that don’t run your pressure through the hose reel ever come up with any ideas to mount a QC location in a surface to just click your hose onto, instead of a loose whip? I’m thinking 2 plugs on either side (either M/F, or more likely 2 Fs with a nipple) through the aluminum angle bracket that I’m going to use to mount my Banjo no-drip coupler through. As long as it’s held tight, I don’t think the vibration of the hose pulsating should cause an issue, am I wrong? I know what a loose whip can do to the shelf overhang on our aluminum skid 
I’ve been wanting to do the same, would it not work to just drill a hole on your angle iron or whatever large enough for the thread of whip hose to slip through then attach a female QC tight to it? As long as the iron isnt too thick, it should seat well enough and keeping it tight bi-monthly should keep the vibrations from destroying it. Hole to be small enough that the part you put your wrench on doesnt come through but larger than the threads themselves. Angle iron might not be thick enough to seat tight now that i think about it… Just a thought as i know little about NPT.
This probably won’t help you but… I’m a huge fan of ‘gear ties’. Cheap, strong, flexible, quick & easy to replace if the need were ever to arise but they’ve been super reliable. I also have my ZK1 unloader mounted to the trailer with them.
1 Like
Wow, that’s amazing…that you already knew it wouldn’t help 
Beats a zip tie though…
My thought is 1/4" aluminum (bc that’s what I have), hole size as tight to the OD of the 3/8 close nipple as i can get it, and a female threaded QC plug on either side cranked down tight to the surface (if you used the threads of the hose, I don’t think it would really hold from pulling through). I can leave the QC socket of the whip from the machine attached on the back side, and click in the one of the working hose on the face. It would probably be preferable to have a rubber grommet around it, but then I worry about the long term effects of the weight (which is the 2nd thing I’m worried about causing a failure anyway, after vibration). But in reality they stay on the machine itself, so maybe weight is the bigger factor. I’m waiting to put in a parts order to replenish my QCs now, maybe I’ll mock one up when I get them…
Wizard has magical powers like that. It’ll probably outlast the rest of my trailer haha. But if not, I keep plenty of them handy. You trying to skip going through the reel or something??
Haven’t been going through the reel for 2+ years
1 Like
What??? I didn’t see that coming. What’s been working for you so far?? I thought you ran 2 x 100 foot sections on each reel, presumably through the reel.
correct
incorrect 
I’m not opposed to it. It may have been user error, or bad purchasing, but when we went to work on stuff my first season here, the innards of those reels were all a mess…whatever it was, I’m not dropping $12-15k to replace them all and do it properly…at least not as long as they still roll up the hoses just fine.
We carry 2 x 100’ sections on the reel, and every truck carries a packaged 100’ for replacement if something goes kaboom. We run a 10’-ish whip from the PW to right beside the reel. That’s why I’m thinking about this, only bc I have to already build a mounting point for my new SH refilling fitting, so I was thinking pair them together.
Understood. I don’t run through the reel & highly recommend 50 foot sections if you can get away with it. You won’t have to unroll 200 when you need 125 & you’ll have a swivel every 50 feet; especially with a flow unloader. Also, when a hose blows you’re not replacing half your reel at a time. My reel is rated to hold 400 feet of 3/8 & I have 5 50 footers on there. Every time a hose blows, it’s always the one closest to the gun leaving me with 200 on the reel. I’ve considered adding a 10 foot section of 2 wire closest to the gun. Last one blew an inch or two from my left hand & didn’t feel too good!
I run water and bleach thru my reels but I put quick connects on the reels to hook the hose to while driving
1 Like
How I avoid that…
Usually breaks near the end like you said…cut off a few feet, new end, carry on. That’s the reason for the spare 100’, get thru the day. Hose will be repaired by the next day. When it gets too short to be worthwhile, it gets cut up and set aside to replace if a whip on a truck blows up.
are you just needing a place to connect the end of hose on reel?
I dunno man. Probably quicker / easier / safer to just remove a section & still have 200 left to work with. The extra swivels make life easier for sure, especially with a flow unloader. I started with 100’s & ain’t going back. 50’s are easier to roll up & drag around, especially with a flow unloader. 80% of my jobs take 3 50 footers. My first 3 hoses are different colors so the sections are easy to identify & prevent tangles, which comes in handy on every job.
Can you send me the details on that. I really want one
Portable hose crimper.
$7500
30 seconds.
I’m hoping he found a used one. I don’t want to spend that much but it would be nice to buy 1000ft rolls of hose.
1 Like
7500$ USD… Hummmm… I’ll continue keeping extra hoses on hand and going to the local shop to have them repaired… Thanks for the info though.
Why don’t guys like to run it through hose reel?
I’ll take 5 new 50 footers and a used bass boat for $7500 Alex!
