Does anybody use the Hudson valve from EnviroSpec? Or which float do you goes run?
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What size buffer are you running?
I’ve got a couple different tanks I can run. I have a 275 ibc tote, 100gal, and 65 gal. I’m going to put together a 5.6gpm @3500psi this winter.
If you’re running the IBC tote then you really don’t need to worry about a float valve. I run an 8gpm off of a 330gal IBC. If you run the 100 or 65 gallon then yeah you’d probably be better off with a float valve or two. A Hudson Valve is a Hudson Valve so it doesn’t matter where you get it. You’ll probably want to have a few spares on hand because they aren’t known to be the most reliable things in the world. They stick open or closed and you just pretty much have to replace it from what I understand.
Im going to try the the tote and just carry 100gal to start the day and probably get some valves. At least till I get my other trailer refinished. Then I won’t worry about weight to much. I just don’t see arm floats doing well with the constant motion when traveling.
No doubt. But seriously if you’re running a 275 IBC then you really don’t need a float at all. Just take a glance at the trailer every once in a while. It helps to trace the graduations on the tank with a sharpie or some guy do a color coding thing with paint at different intervals (like green at 150, yellow at 100, red at 50, etc.). I’m pretty sure @Racer runs a 275 and I don’t believe he uses an floats and he’s running 8.5gpm machine and one smaller I believe. I usually start and end the day with 50 gallons in mine. Hooking up to water is always the first step of every job after notifying the customer of my arrival. By the time you get your hoses strung out, taped and bagged, mixed chems, etc. you should have plenty of water in the tank and ready to rock. The difference between carrying 50 gallons and 100 gallons is over 400lbs so if you’re cutting it close on trailer capacity you need to take that into consideration.
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I will be building out my small trailer this winter and sandblasting, powder coating, and doing some modifications to my 16ft. Once I finish it I won’t worry about weight lol. Good info thanks
Tis the reason I run class 5 and class 6 trucks. My F550’s scale out at 18,500 and the C6500’s are looking like they’ll come in right over 25k
Hudson valves are terrific, easy to maintain and a quick easy way to keep your setup professional. No customer likes seeing their water flowing out of your setup they just see $$ washing away.
I’ve only found 1” Hudson valves, so keeping that in mind if your coming off a 3/4 bulkhead like I am then you’ll need a close thread reducer.
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Despite 200 gallons of water costing 84 cents
I completely agree with you, but it’s hard to tell that to a customer when they bad mouth you to their friends and family.
Gotta always remember we’re in the service business and happy customers keep us busy
Easy, just tell them to send you the bill for the entire month lol
My customers are very happy and we ditch about 4,500 gallons of their water at the end of our days between all the trucks
Different strokes for different folks.
Not really, I wash fleet trucks by the way so it’s more like standard practice.
Yea I’m residential and commercial properties. I deal with home owners and property managers so gotta always keep things neat and tidy
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I’m not at that stage yet bud! Gonna stick with the ole F250 and a trailer for now. If I grow as big as you I will think about them big boy toys.
@CleanLife. That’s why I was thinking about valves. Don’t want to constantly go back and forth to trailer checking water and sure don’t want to be wasting the customers.
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You would have no need unless you had to truck around 750-2,000k gallons. And in my eyes I’m not big time YET. It’s in the works though.
If you’re using the tote you’ll never be going back and forth constantly. Check it when you switch soap to rinse. One thing with float valves is you become dependent on them and when one fails and you run your machine dry and cavitate the pump it’s going to cost you.
