After quietly reading, preparing, documenting, and buying used on the cheap for close to two years, I am finally putting together a setup on my truck bed. Thanks to @SchertzServicesLLC, I have a steel skid and a low profile 200 Gal tank that fits underneath which will allow me to actually have window cleaning as well as pressure washing setup on a 6’ 2" half-ton truck bed. 2006 Toyota Tundra. A large trailer was not an option for me due to storage challenges. Below is the list of main items:
H2Pro 3-Stage RO/DI Cart (50"H x 20"W x 16L & 13"W w/o Wheels)
Honda GX690 with OEM Muffler (Bought used w/43 hours on it)
Udor GKC 3024S on Poly Chain Drive which will put out 8 GPM @ 3,000 PSI (Poly chain came with the used Pressure Pro; I wouldn’t have paid the premium over Gear Drive.)
K-7.2 Flow Unloader for 8 GPM w/ Bypass to Buffer Tank (Step Down from K-7.3)
Attwood Portable Marine Fuel Tank w/ Gauge, 12 Gal - 8812LPG
Flexzilla Garden Hose 5/8" 100 ft (Had it already for window cleaning)
Liberty Garden Products Commercial Steel Garden Hose Reel 709 (Had it already for window cleaning; will upgrade later)
Ace Roto-Mold 200 Gal Low Profile Rectangular Tank LP0200-RT (60"x48"x19") (bought used from @SchertzServicesLLC)
GP Proportioning Chemical Injector Stainless Steel 1 Barb, 3-5 GPM .086 Orfice w/ Dema Chemical Injector Proportioner Tip Kit, Standard (@squidskc’s recommendation; @Innocentbystander mentioned how this can allow one chem tank to serve both the downstream and 12V for dirty bricks and roofs)
1/4" Hose Barb 3-Way PVC Ball Valve with Viton Seals - Series 326 (Will upgrade to Schertz Box asap)
Ace Roto-Mold 35 Gallon Horizontal Leg Tank (34" Length x 18" Width x 22" Height, 5" Lid) - FS0035-18
Custom Injector Bypass Kit (Per @Racer’s config with @Ikii’s idea of not going through the reel manifold)
Hannay Manual Hose Reel 12" 1520-17-18 (24.5"W x 16.5"L)
Goodyear Neptune 3/8" 1-Wire Pressure Washer Hose Gray 200 ft.
“Sacrificial Jumper Hose” at the Gun, 6 ft.
Whisper Wash Ultra Clean 19" Floater w/ 4 Tip Bar
Echo Gas Leaf Blower - PB-251 (Bought used)
Dozens of Stainless Steel QC’s
24" Aluminum Diamond Plate Box for 12V (Many brick homes in the area, so need to add sooner than later)
Back up PW Unit with GX340 and General TSS1511 on Gear Drive to put out 4 GPM @ 3,500 PSI (also bought used) - Same dimensions as the 8 GPM, so I can plug this in if the 8 GPM needs servicing.
*Light blue shows the tank underneath the skid.
*Dark blue is the RO Cart underneath the deck wood which will stick out past the skid to go all the way to the tailgate. The skid is a little shorter as my bed is about 7-8" longer than Chris’ F-150.
*I am probably going to put some sheet metal between the PW and the gas tank even though the exhaust goes out toward the back.
It took a lot longer than I thought, but I got the deck off. I am going to remove the surface rust and repaint the skid. Then, I will go get some 3/4" outdoor duty heat treated plywood and paint it with Deckover by Behr.
So, I have a plumbing question for y’all. This is what I had in mind coming off of the 200 gal low profile tank.
2" bulkhead on top
To the left is the feed line → 2" ball valve → 1.5" Banjo filter → 1" suction hose which will make a smooth U-turn while going up 2’ to connect to the 8 GPM pump right above the tank.
Still debating on the plumbing. Should I come out to the 2" bulkhead at the bottom or drop down from top… Made a mock up of the RO cart and plumbing to picture things…
just so you know, you will never be able to wash while your truck is facing downwards on a hill or on an angle, square tanks and low bulkheads just don’t work unless completely flat, you’ll starve your pump. Think about it before you make it permanent, you can’t always pick where you park.
What would be the alternative? I was going to put in a 90 degree elbow inside the bulkhead which will be about 1/2-3/8" from the bottom of the tank. Would that help? I can avoid parking facing downhill most of the times here. A slight angle to the right or left is the worst that can happen…
The simple alternative is to reverse it down a hill to have water over bulkhead and vice versa, the problem with that is that humans forget sometimes. Just be mindful. I don’t personally see a need for a 200 gallon tank taking up that much vertical and horizontal room for house washing but that’s just me doing me.
You could add a bulkhead and have a three-way valve between the two. Have a draw tube on the backside of the second bulkhead that goes to the front of the tank. I know from memory there have been a few occasions where it would’ve been tricky for me to get parked facing uphill.
Kind of like how I linked my two water tanks:
The elbow on the back side of your bulkhead is a really good idea for a low profile tank, as well
As far as your dump valve goes: I would add another bulkhead off in the corner out of the way. The fewer fittings you have on your suction line, the better.
Very interesting. The second bulkhead option does sound appealing, but man, it’s gonna be a lot more plumbing than I had anticipated. Honestly a little overwhelming. If I go that route, I’ll definitely need the dump valve to be separated. Here’s a mockup of somethings in place. I swapped the sh tank and gas. Next to the sh tank will be the pressure washer and between the aluminum box and the blue reel will be the skinny wfp hose reel. A little tight, but it’ll work… Am I missing anything?
That bulkhead is gonna be a problem with SH. I can almost guarantee it. The gaskets dry out and will leak awful. @squidskc lost something like 35 gallons of housewash inside his shop, IIRC. You might find a local who can plastic-weld a patch over the opening.
But kudos on using the proper steel bands for tying it down.
Unfortunately, the bulkhead came with the tank when I picked it up. I ordered a plug to close it off. It doesn’t involve a gasket, probably some thread sealer. Would that work?
Unfortunately the issue is with the gasket that seals the bulkhead fitting itself to the tank wall. It’s on the inside of the tank and will basically disintegrate over time.
Ah, gotcha. With straight bleach, that won’t stand a chance. Thanks.
As for feed tank plumbing, how about I get a 1-1/2" bulkhead on the bottom left corner in the front of the tank, bring it up to the pump using a 1" suction line and put a Banjo 3-way there, so depending on the incline, I can use either the front bulkhead or rear bulkhead? And, I can make a drain 2" bulkhead in the back right corner separate. Would that work or do you think I should draw down from the top for the second feed line?
If it were my rig, I would probably leave the second bulkhead and 3-way valve as an, “I’ll get to it later” project, and just see how I do without it for awhile.
I normally would, but once the skid and the deck wood is bolted on, it’d be very difficult to access it, so I’m thinking hard about the plumbing. @SchertzServicesLLC says he just stuck the suction hose in down from the top, so maybe I’ll have that as the one of the options. Just trying to see how to keep the hose down and draw maximum amount. Thanks for your input, @Infinity!
My factory plugged bulkhead leaked on my SH tank. I changed it to a banjo bulkhead and used silicone grease to add a little extra protection and I haven’t had a leak in the 3 years I’ve been using it. Change that bulkhead to a Banjo.
