Been reading here a while and hopefully am not about to embarrass myself with this setup. I work FT but for peanuts and recently found the same love for this work that you guys have. So only PT until I can Jerry Mguire myself out of the 9-5. Will be garage kept.
Almost done setting up my first build but am a little unsure about the weight distribution and the 90° turn for the supply line (need to finish plumbing but hopefully that gives you the general idea). The tote is dead center over the axle (its a 330 but the water here is usually pretty good so plan to haul mostly empty most of the time).
I planned to go 5gpm but reading how no one has ever regretted going to 8, stretched it and went whole hog. But that little upgrade has me worried I bit off more than my little trailer (and my behind) could chew.
I plan to add a 35 gallon leg tank for sh in front of the tote. Adding a supply reel where the yellow hose is and a high pressure reel after that short yellow hose after my DS (waiting on reels and whip lines to get here)
Not doing roofs until I gain more exp snd just going to DS and do house and concrete for now so didn’t see a need for a 12v system but hoping to get there.
The toolbox in front of the battery is where ill put the fuel tank fir now. Eventually ill add bracing and lift the machine up onto a little platform like @Racer video showed. Also going to add a ladder rack to the street side but thats all for later since someone wanted a 8gpm machine
Waiting on a sign for the bafk and a couple smaller ones for the sides of the IBC
Welcome! You have some good equipment. Totes sketch me out, even moreso on a single-axle. But props on going for the Honda and a bigger pump!
Your DS injector bypass is set up weird, I don’t think it’ll work like that. If you’re going to run a bypass, the injector should be on the bypass side.
As for the 90, I goofed and ordered the a leg tank connection when I thought I’d be going 5gpm. I haven’t gotten the connection to the tote figured out yet but assumed I’d need a sched 80 threaded onto it then stepped down to the supply (plumbing store is closed today and home depot had nothing) and with the lack of space figured I’d need a 90 turn to connect the supply. That pic is just my non collapse shoved inside to look nice
I was kind of wondering that about thw DS but haven’t gotten that far into plumbing yet. I bought it that way and as many videos as I’ve seen, I’m a hands on kinda guy. Am I wrong that I need to reassemble the bypass to match what you have shown?
I would definitely replumb your bypass, that first pic is from @Racer, the second one is my own that I put together from reading his recommendations.
You might want to think about running large diameter pipe out of your IBC and throwing in a Tee with ball-valves on either side. That will let you isolate the pump (keeping it primed) and dump the tank when you’re done. Then after the ball-valves headed to your pump, you can drop down to your 1" hose. Below is a picture of mine to show you what I mean, but mine is all 1.5" all the way to the pump.
Dude, thats exactly what I needed to see, thanks!
That T is what i was calling a 90 and was what I was concerned with. I owe you a frosty one if you’re ever in the ATL
Right on, happy to help! The most important part of that picture is there’s a 45-degree fitting right after the union. That will help you secure the plumbing to the trailer so it doesn’t break when you hit a bump in the road. The less hard-plumbing you can do, the better. All it takes is a ladder dropping on it to wreck your day
I’m confused now, was considering an injector bypass but the storebought ones have the injector inline, but you guys are saying the ball valve should be inline?
It makes more sense that way for best rinse/surface cleaner flow but if the injector doesn’t pull as much, I dunno.
I just went out to look at a spare injector, I guess it’s offering enough resistance to make the flow go through the loop instead. It just looked to me like the path of least resistance was the straight line and didn’t make sense that the flow would choose the two tees and the loop.
I reckon if it works, it works! Just looked weird to me, and racer’s way makes much more sense from a fluid dynamics perspective. You’ll spend way more time rinsing than soaping, why put the restrictions on the rinse path?
My reply was an example of what happens when you respond before reading the whole thread…I have it set up the same way as you and Rick (I got that from @Racer) I thought you were saying that was the wrong way to set it up, until I read your post more carefully. Sorry about the confusion.
Appreciate the input all and thanks @Atlas1 for clarifying. You had me nervous there for a sec
I’m planning on keeping all my chems but the bleach tank at the back near the gate. Should I shift the tote fwd/back any if I’m carrying 75-100 gal on average? Read another thread where some guys ran a 2x4 across the bottom to use to secure the IBC so trying to best place it (I think @Innocentbystander or @DisplacedTexan mentioned it on said thread, don’t know how to link it here. Btw, you guys crack me up…much respect )
Was thinking I’d need to shift the leg tank over to the street side a little to compensate for the weight of the reels/machine or would it not matter much? Thanks again!
Wouldn’t run a 2x4 under the trailer. It won’t last very long at all. I used two 2x4 pieces on the top of the floor to keep the tote from moving forward or backward. I have four 1’ pieces of flat iron underneath that the eye bolts go through so that each eye bolts tension is spread across two trailer deck boards. Grump has used old mower blades to the same effect.
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