Did you receive and/or test it yet?
I did receive it but I haven’t ran into the need for it yet. This doesn’t help you now but I’ll update when I do.
This thread is extremely long so I didnt read the whole thing and realize I may be reiterating whats already been said and maybe even already said this here. But whenever I’m dealing with white wood or vinyl that’s just “dirty” I put ebc in my mix. Its bleach stable. And degreases without all the the potential hazards of other degreaser like citrus and hydroxide. Also be careful spraying acid on peoples siding. Sometimes it will change the color where you sprayed it and you’ll have to do the whole side to get it to match. SERIOUSLY… If you havnt tried it yet try some ebc. The stuff is magical.
I tested it for the first time yesterday. It did not work. I had to scrub the canopy with soft unger brush. I tried it at two concentrations, one downstreamed as the instructed ratio. This did not work. I also tried it at 2x in a pump up sprayer and it began to remove paintin only 30 seconds. The paint was also heavily oxidized. I’m not saying that this won’t work in other situations such as unoxidized vinyl, but it did not work on this oxidized painted aluminum canopy.
Harold thanks a lot for the update, bad it didn’t work though.
So I did an experiment on my first job today. House was right on a main road (like, practically within the state’s right of way- definitely wouldn’t have gotten a building permit nowadays)
Bad fallout on the whole front of it. I don’t usually include fallout removal; never even attempted it. But I felt compelled on this one. You could hardly tell I had washed the front of it.
This is what I did:
I put my ballvalve before my gun (I’ve got one on quick connects, just for occasional use), and cracked it open so I was getting maybe 2-3 gpm. I did this to increase my draw rate, as well as reduce the pressure and splashback I typically get with the xjet (even with a lance in front of it).
I stuck my xjet on the gun (no proportioning tip), and put the drop tube in a bottle of OneRestore.
Hoe. Lee. Smokes!
Fallout stains disappeared near instantly. Back to a bright, shiny white.
I really should have used a proportioning tip. Could have attained the same results with a lot less chemical, and a tiny bit of dwell time. But I had no idea it was going to work so well.
I blew through more than half a gallon of OneRestore in probably a minute or less of spraying, lol.
Forgot to take pics. Totally kicking myself for that . But trust me, the results were fantastic.
Main ingredient in one restore is hydrochloric acid…does it seem dangerous like muratic or no?
Interesting, thank you for the great info!
I don’t think it’s nearly as dangerous as Muriatic. It used to be called SafeRestore, but EacoChem changed the name a few years ago.
I’m sure it has the potential to do some real damage if not handled properly, though. I treated it the same way I would handle a really hot roof mix (if I did roofs). Water like crazy, wear my ppe, do everything possible to avoid overspray and splashback.
yes, you could easily diluted it to 50-50. Find a local chem company that has a product with hydrochloric acid in it. I have stuff I get here for that and removing mud off vinyl, etc that costs $5.50/gal.
The problem you have to careful with using it is if you do just a few boards or whatever, the color is going to look a lot better than the rest of the siding. Sometimes you can kind of feather it in, otherwise you may end up doing the whole side.
Yep, this is what I did, and would plan on doing if I offered it in the future. Thankfully, the front of the house was the smallest side. It was pretty cute
My xjet probably put it on at 2:1 or 3:1. So it was diluted some. But it definitely could have been diluted some more
Those little IPS sprayers are great for applying. They’ll shoot about 20 ft up. Just drop your hose in it and go.
Ok, side question: do you know if I can damage my flow unloader by forcing it to bypass 50% with a ballvalve?
shouldn’t hurt it, unloader doesn’t care. But easier to just throttle machine down.
Yeah, I’ve done that in the past. But I’ve heard that it’s not very good for the engine. I’m sure doing it once in awhile isn’t really going to harm anything, but between the two components (engine and unloader) I know which one I’d rather have to replace prematurely, lol.
Ball valve worked great for getting the desired flow for this situation.
What size machine you have?
The other reason I switched to using a ball valve instead of throttling back, is that my engine would bog and sometimes even stall when the pressure built up to bypass. But now that I’m using a flow unloader, I guess that’s kind of a moot point, now.
So you are paying for diluted muriatic or hydrochloric acid when buying one restore
Not necessarily…the hard thing with MSDS sheets is that if it’s a proprietary formula it can hide behind the patent. So there’s a lot in one restore you don’t know what’s in it.
But yes…diluted hydrochloric mix with surfactants.