@CaCO3Girl Mary, how many Lipton full size tea bags and cups of sugar will dissolve into one gallon of water, and still allow for ice cubes?
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I can’t give my formulas away but ill say less than 5% phos…and it wouldn’t hurt to put your favorite surfactant in there at less than 2%
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Sorry, that’s food chemistry and my family (who are great cooks and even master chefs) are convinced the cooking gene morphed into the chemistry gene in me. I do NOT give advice on food things…it doesn’t go well 
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Great Job Harold!
Question - did you only treat the rust spots or did you do the entire driveway?
Thanks. I treated up until the expansion joints of the section that the rust was in. You could see a slight difference but I was out of OA and the customer was beyond happy.
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Your results are similar to what I see. A general “whitening” with some concentrations of extra white. Does anyone know how to blend this out and make it look more natural and even?
Do an acid wash after?
That’s the only thing I would do different. I rolled the entire thing 3 times, then spot treated. I will not spot treat next time. I’ll either roll it more or accept the residual stain
Nicely done. Youngster!
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Maybe I’m missing something but I don’t get all the confusion. After surface cleaning once (no hot water), I came back and pump sprayed OA, waited for rust stain to disappear (5mins), and rinsed.
I use liquid OA that comes in 5gal bucket without diluting. $50 and I charged $100 to remove.
Drive by in two weeks and see if it’s back. Sadly, sometimes a shadow returns.
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I tell the customers it’s coming back, unless they turn off their irrigation system…lol
Where do you get your OA from in liquid form?
Local PW equipment store. It’s called White Ox.
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I’ve not used F9 before, just oxalic. It seems that F9 is the way to go if the price can be justified. Can anyone tell me what the useful shelf life of F9 would be?
5 years. From the manufacturer.
I try oxalic first just because it’s cheaper. It usually works fine on vinyl or if there’s light rust on concrete. If it’s those dark rust stains on concrete or other porous surfaces forget oxalic. F9 Barc is the way to go. The stuff works great. A gallon will take you pretty far as long as you’re not doing huge areas. It’s worth the price though.
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Thanks, A 5 year shelf life should be plenty.
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I feel sorry for whoever lives behind that bank of radiation, I mean “smart meters”. Probably only 25 and has cancer already.
Lol. Although, if I lived there, I’d probably be hanging some lead blankets or something on the other side of the wall, “just in case”.
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OK resurrecting this thread because there is SO MUCH good information here. Are any of you familiar with a stone cleaner TW Masonry 80? I can’t find any information on it to learn what it is. I know a local contractor used it recently on a blue stone job and it looks amazing after the red clay stains were removed - Just wondering what it is and if its safe to use on brick and block.
