Elemonator and Oxalic Acid?


OA works slower/takes more applications. More time on the job.

F9 works really well. Seems like the better something works the more dangerous it is. Lol


I missed the iron part of your statement. I’ll update here with results.


That’s 100% accurate


F9 actually relatively mild compared to some. Think he has some buffers or something in it. I 've had it rain on me when cleaning high rust stains and still here. @CaCO3Girl you should try some, I need to order more soon. You’re closer than any other suppliers.



I’ll see what I can do


I used to use this

You might be able to get it at your local pressure washing store

But switched to this (because if whole eat-your-bones-through-your-skin thing)

I get it on amazon


Yup, the skull and crossbones pictogram is a sure sign of HF or ABF


So I know F9 and Rust Remover Plus are used for the same things but there seems to be an underlying opinion that F9 works better than RR+. Does HF work “better/faster” than ABF?
Here’s the RR+ ingredients off the SDS.

This product contains the following substances that present a hazard within the meaning of the relevant State and
Federal Hazardous Substances regulations.
Ingredient/Chemical Designations Weight % GHS Classification Notes
Ammonium bifluoride
CAS Number: 0001341-49-7
50 - 75 Acute Tox. 3;H301
Skin Corr. 1B;H314
Phosphoric acid
CAS Number: 0007664-38-2
10 - 25 Skin Corr. 1B;H314 (> 25%)
Eye Irrit. 2; H319: 10% ≤ C < 25%
Skin Irrit. 2; H315: 10% ≤ C < 25%
Oxalic acid
CAS Number: 0000144-62-7
10 - 25 Acute Tox. 4;H312
Acute Tox. 4;H302
Trade Secret
CAS Number: Trade Secret
10-25 Acute Tox. 4;H302
Aquatic Chronic 2;H411
In accordance with paragraph (i) of §1910.1200, the specific chemical identity and/or exact percentage (concentration) of composition has been
withheld as a trade secret.
[1] Substance classified with a health or environmental hazard.
[2] Substance with a workplace exposure limit.
[3] PBT-substance or vPvB-substance.
*The full texts of the phrases are shown in Section 16.


While placing text for the $50 gallon on f9 I see this called rust magic. 40lb for $90.

I’m tempted to just order some because of the price. $90 makes 40-80 gallons. I’m going to get f9 because I feel more confident about it but may get both.


So if I had a small dedicated tank that was set up with an agitator to mix and remix oxalic acid and water…would the mix last a month, 6 monthes, a year?..We have a ton of rust stains here…it would be super convenient to be able to flush my softwash system and start pulling from a dedicated oxalic tank. I might even do it even if it would only last a couple of weeks


I don’t see a problem with that. I would encourage you to draw a sample EVERY DAY to make sure it still looks good. At a pH of less than 2 i don’t see anything being gutsy enough to grow in there. However, stuff happens and that’s why you should look at it daily just to make sure no one poured a soda in there, or a quart of oil…etc.

What percentage of oxalic do you mix? Do you own a refractometer?


HF is considered toxic and corrosive by DOT at 1%. It is 5% for ABF, so yes, HF is worse for health and works faster.

Do you have an SDS on the Rust magic? Make sure it isn’t just straight up oxalic.


No I don’t have a refractometer, and my chemistry skills are weak lol…I use the same method that Squid uses…I use a rounded cup to a gallon of water


acidophlic algae, microalge & red macro algae growing in acid as low as 0.05PH. Life always finds a way. I deal with a lot of the red macro in process water loops, it always amazes me from clear to red in a month.


It’s not directly available on the website. I’ll have to call


Speaking of Refractometers. Do you have an opinion on a good one? I care more about quality then price. I can never wait to get another “tool” haha


How high of a reading are you expecting?


I have absolutely no idea. I don’t even have a specific purpose for it. I’m still relatively new to pressure washing and know basically nothing about chemistry. Just seems like it would be handy to have around.


Should I get one? I’m not opposed to buying anything that will make me and my business better…also if I get one what would I be looking for?? I know you look through it but that’s about all I know about them…some of the guys that I make wine with use them…would it be the same kind?


You guys are nuts. Focus on marketing you’re business instead of worrying about saving a few dollars on some chems. There are plenty of products already on the market that will care of the problem at reasonable cost. If it’s light rust couple of coats of oxalic will do the trick but oftentimes you’ll get mixed results. If really bad you can used muractic but it basically works by stripping off some concrete. Plenty of places sell aluminum brightener which is HF and sometimes it will work, usually better on vinyl than concrete. F9 is user friendly and nearly always works if used correctly. If you use a $35 gal of F9, who cares, because if you used that much the job is probably a minimum $300-$400 job.

That spot that @Harold posted above would be a $250 - 300 job at least.