Every tip on my jrod will draw soap…3 fan tips and a 0 degree…200ft hose.
So the idea is to be earning 24 hours a day. The crews won’t be cross trained because the two services are so different. The trucks won’t have exactly the same equipment for the day crew as the nights crew but the bones will be the same (the machine). So the day crew would show up and the truck would be parked in its spot. They would hop in and load up their “day equipment” and take off to do their route. They would come back to the shop unload their day equipment onto their floor space. Then the night crew would clock in and load up the same truck with the night equipment.
There is a lot I would need to test out to make this work but I think if I systematized it enough it would flow perfectly.
Hood cleaning relies on pressure right? Youll orobably need to have seperate unloaders for each. i have my unloader on quick connect so I can easily check it if needed.
Unloaders shouldn’t need swapping. Just the spray tips for correct pressure. Right, @Newguy?
The most important part for hood cleaning is having a burner. The higher psi And gpm helps but nothing helps like hot water.
Did you buy your nozzles separate than what comes with the jrod? The rinse tips are higher pressure for the reason of not pulling soap. Although, most think they’re too much pressure for soft washing so go back to the trailer to pull the mix tube or use a remote. I’ll use the fan rinse tip to blow leaves off of porches and I’ve never had it pull soap even if the soap was turned on. Seems like every machine is just a little bit different than the next and nothing is set in stone. Someone could have the exact same setup as you and there’s won’t pull soap and yours will…lol. I don’t get it sometimes.
I got the hot water part. Explain how you will set your unloaders. I wouldnt think the gpm we use for softwashing is gonna be what you want even with tips for pressure, at least not anything more than 4gpm. At least thats what I remember reading about regarding hood cleaning the last time it was brought up.
I suppose one could manage.
I guess I’m not really understanding the question. Are you saying for hood cleaning it’s best to have lower than 4gmp? With hood cleaning the more gpm the better. We have trucks with anything from 3gpm through 8 gpm. The higher the gpm the quicker we can get a system cleaned but even 4gmp can get any system cleaned. I don’t think I’ll need to make any adjustments for swapping from soft washing to hood cleaning.
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Yeah, I was more in agreement with you, that whatever gpm you’re house washing with, will probably work for hood cleaning, too. You might want a little more pressure (idk, I don’t do KEC), which can be achieved with a different set of spray tips.
Ok yeah any gpm will ultimately work for kec. The difference in tips is that we would use a turbo nozzle.
i bought mine already put together…I soap and rinse with all of them. You are right, though…every rig seems to be different.
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When i read about it, someone Elsa’s experience that I read about here on pWRA, was that all the excess water or chemical was hard to control or just was problematic.
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I could see that because all our water needs to be reclaimed but catching it is not that difficult if you are properly set up to do so.
Not sure which unloader you run, but I have seen them set where they bypass just enough when using smaller orifice nozzles that the injector will still pull soap. Not saying you don’t have it set correctly but might be worth checking
Hmmm I thought hood cleaners used lower gpm, 3gpm and under. 
I am not messing with it…like it just the way it is.
Why’d you delete it? Fair question.
To answer, yes you can repair them. You can get new springs, balls, seats, all that stuff. If they’re only lasting a few days, you might be getting gunk in them through the soap line (assuming you have a good filter on your water feed).
Have you taken them apart yet to see where the failure is?
What type of injectors are you using?
These are the ones i’ve used most:
I do have an inlet filter at the hose. Snotmenade is the surfactant i’m using. This is my first year downstreaming, i Love it, way better than x-jetting, i just need to have the injectors last longer.
I took one apart and there’s barely any corrosion at all that i can see which surprised me. I’ll try shooting wd40 in there and put it back together and try it again.
Open to all helpful tips.
So i’ve tried it after putting it back together, it sucked my finger for a few seconds then water started shooting out of the injector when not pulling trigger.
Are you running water through the injector when you’re finishing up? Like actually sticking your drop tube (or whatever your setup is) into a bucket of water while you rinse the last section of a house?
