I am adding 2 more hose reels (only have one currently) 1 for pressure hose, 1 for ag hose and 1 for flexzilla supply hose. I want to add one more reel with 1/4” line for my waterfed pole. My plan is to do like @Racer and have two sections of flexzilla on the supply reel. I have a reel coming with 1” inlet. The plan is to have 100’ with cam lock at end to take off reel and hook to spigot then to the cam lock with 4 way splitter. One side will go to fill up buffer tank, one to the hose reel so I can have water on the flexzilla hose for big jobs where we need to have someone else rinsing, one to my ds mix tank to quickly add water, and another one going over to the di tank, where after that it goes to a wfp reel.
I want to get a di tank that lets you change the resin yourself without having to buy expensive cartridges like my current tucker di. Anyone recommend one that I can install on the rig? After the di tank have a whip that goes to the wpf hose reel with 200’ of 1/4” line. This way we can do windows without dragging the di tank all over the place. Space is limited to trying to find a compact reel to squeeze in somewhere. Depending on the price I may even want to go electric, especially since it would take up less room as I don’t need to find a place to put it that has room to run a hand crank.
I would ask about the di tank over at the window cleaning forum. There aren’t too many of us here that use them. @Jordie would be able to make some recommendations.
If you have hard water you will be better off using the ro/di cart. If not you will go through a lot of resin, will be costly. If you have like under a 100 or so tds you should be fine with resin. I’ve used Ipc cart for years, those ro filters last a long time. Cost me very little to operate.
That’s what I started with. We had a tall house wash with a window detail needed and not enough room to put a ladder. Got the di filter and hooked to a spray nozzle on garden hose that had jet mode. Was able to rinse 30’ up! That one and some others worked that way but it turned out I still needed a wfp as sometimes the windows still need agitating. It doesn’t work as well as expected to just rinse with di water.
Need to use in conjunction with a WFP. Just spraying won’t cut it, better then nothing but not professionally done. You will go through some resin with 230 tds, have over 200 in Lexington and I had to go wit ro/di years ago. I still have my di vessel just sit around, never use it.
You use traditional window cleaning? The WFP system is awesome, saves us about 70% on time on the outside. Well worth having it. Can’t always use on first cleans depending on how bad they are but overall a great way to clean the windows, frames and bases.
If you wash the windows with the hw mix do you still have to scrub by hand? I also got this over the top spray bar that has a white Brillo pad style head (made by tucker) that works well for stubborn spots. We do exterior window detail on about 80% of the house washes. Water spots a different animal and charge extra to remove.
No, you should be fine. The pad will get the majority of stubborn spots and rinse with pure water. I prefer using a tucker brush as the pad it’s hard to get in the corners the way it’s designed, good for open areas of the window but not corners. I’ve cleaned windows close to 30 years so I may be a little particular then needed if your just up selling a exterior wash. We don’t do exterior only, very rare. Insides are usually just as bad, so we do both inside and out, just how we do it. But understand that most in pw industry market doing outside only. We think there’s money left on the table and customers end up liking it better when both sides cleaned. We usually make 100-125 per man hour for residential window cleaning. So…might be just preference, but seems to work for us.
Hey dan I now have my dedicated hose reel with the ability to use either 200’ or 300’ of 5/8” flexzilla hose on it. My plan is to hook in my di filter just before the reel (with a 10’ flexzilla whip between the 2) and then feed the di water through the flexzilla over to my waterfed pole. That way I can leave the di filter on the truck and just Unroll the hose off the reel. Is there anything wrong with doing that? Since the flexzilla says it’s safe for drinking water would the di water stay clean going through 200 or 300 feet of the flexzilla hose before coming out the wfp?
My .2 … skip the DI set up and go with 3 stage ro/di system… My area is not even that bad (around 140-160ppm out of the spigot) but if you start doing a lot of windows, that resin is gonna go in a heart beat. When I added the DI tank and WFP set up we were doing maybe one house (windows) a week. Now we sometimes do 3 in a single day (basically every house we wash). I didn’t realize how much my utilization had really gone up until I changed resin and it was basically all used up within a few days. I ordered the XERO Pure system today from John and looking forward to not having to worry about the dang resin so often anymore.
Sounds like you were using a single Di tank? You could have just added a second tank and then used the “workhorse-polisher” method and got way more use out of your resin. Ro-di is overkill in areas where water isn’t too bad.
I don’t think that is a good idea, I hope you didn’t buy that much flexzilla, or maybe you can return it.
The flow rate would be way too high. Put proper Waterfed hose on that reel instead. If your flow rate is too high, you will not get to zero ppm because the water is moving too quickly through your resin.
The small diameter of WFP hose restricts flow naturally, and still allows enough flow to work effectively.
