Correct remote valve?

These two tolerate her well lol

Wait now I’m confused if I apply power to my valve and open it then unhook battery it doesn’t close I dont understand why its drawing power in the open position

Turn it on for 20 minutes and shine the thermal camera at it.

It probably has more to do with the “auto return” function of it. It doesn’t get as hot as solenoid valves do so I know the ball valve doesn’t get the full 12 volts. I’m no electrician so I’m just assuming on the auto return thing. If you look at the instructions it says “power consumption is nominal” so it’s not getting the full 12v in the open.

I thought those valves had an internal battery that would auto close it if it was disconnected.

They probably know they have to if they want a full bowl of food in the morning! Or, they’re scared of it too!

Ok I’m not saying your wrong but it just seams like that would be more the way the remote switch is wired and its ability to cut off power. But maybe I just dont understand like I said if I open the disconnect power it doesn’t close

Zoey the shepherd chases her short distances. When daisy (the cat) is hyper she intentionally jumps on Fiona (the fat brown blob chocolate lab) when she’s sleeping and scares the crap out of her.

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I don’t think so but I’m not sure. I have an old two wire before I knew about the 5 wire and no heat and will pull it apart to see. Maybe the higher end valves do?

So in theory the valve has to close on its own when you cut power. Because if it’s only 2 wires and it’s wired to the remote that’s exactly what the remote does. It cuts the positive side of the circuit. Unhooking it from the battery when the remote is on and valve is open should do the same thing as clicking the off button.

The valve has 2 wires. Black and red. Cut one in any fashion and it goes back “home” so it has to have a battery of some sort or be spring loaded to “pull” itself closed.

If it has a spring then that’s why it generates heat. The motor is fighting the spring tension to keep it open.

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But if that was true wouldn’t the valve return to close when power is cut to the positive wire. And if not pulling any current why would it generate heat

The remote is cutting the power to the valve just the same as if the battery did it. Only in a fancy way.

Correct but if it doesn’t have power why would it generate heat

If it has 2 wires and you touch it to a battery you will heat it open. Take the positive side off the battery and it should close. That’s the only way a two wore can possibly operate without a 3rd wire as a trigger.

If it doesn’t close when you disconnect the battery I’d say you have a bad valve or it’s spring loaded and you didn’t hear it close.

Doesn’t generate heat when in the off position. Just the on

You guys are gonna make me take that valve apart aren’t you?:laughing:

When energized it has a slight click when fully open, so I believe there is some sort of pawl lock. When disconnected it clicks again and closes, can’t tell if it’s spring loaded or internal battery. The instructions mention the power draw is nominal.

“Due to power limiting features of these valves, they can be hooked up to power non-stop without risk of overheating”.

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Ok I got the truck tore down I’m going to check I’m almost when I tested it if I take of power it doesn’t return on it just stays in that position

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It has to. That’s what it was built to do. Power good me turn on. No power me turn off.

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Only the auto return model does that.

How does a 2 wire not have auto return?