Wanted to see if you guys can help troubleshoot my bluetip kynar injector. I’m running a little bit over 8.5 gpm with a 50 soap tip. Getting 100 psi at gun. A tad under 3500 psi without triggering. 250 ft of hose. I am using the grey metering tip. I have a chem bypass set up with injector on the loop. I can’t get a draw better than 22 to 1 ! I moved the injector to the straight and had worse results. I took off metering tip, had worse results on one injector switched out and had worse results with the metering tip. Any suggestions appreciated
Take off all that bypass plumbing and you be fine. Gotta have a smooth, straight pull for the injector to work best
How old is the injector?
It looks brand new. He needs to take that clamp off or the first time the oring blows out his chem tank is going to be full of water
What’s the orifice size on your injector?
Scratch that; I didn’t know that GP had a different color kynar barb for each orifice.
Brand new. Spoke to gp today. He tried to help me troubleshoot. He’s going to send me a new, smaller nozzle for the inlet side of the injector
Innocent bystander. I switched the injector to the straight, in place of my ball valve and I moved it to the front and back and had a 25+ To 1 draw. I switched it back to this set up. I took a 100 ft of hose off. Made no difference. Switched injectors,no difference.
Why would water fill my chem tank if the hose blew off injector? I had it on loose. I was seeing if it were right if I’d have a difference in draw. Really tried everything I could think of or read to do b
He’s saying that if the hose clamp is on tight, the hose WON’T blow off when the o-ring fails. Then water would blow through the injector, up the chem line, and into your tank.
You can just stick the hose on the end
Gotcha. That makes sense now. That sounds like something that would happen to me at this point
Just put you a plain old brass 2.1 3-5 gal injector on there that costs $15 and see what happens. Your setup is exactly like mine, with the exception of the fancy injector you have, and I pull soap like crazy.
Racer. I have a few coming if the kynar blue doesn’t pan out with smaller nozzle size. Why do you think the 2.1 brass will work? Can’t be too much different in size if they both pull similar ratios.
I bought 2 of the “best” gp hi draw injectors and one of them was broke right out the gate. Get another one and see what happens. Sometimes brand new is garbage. Happened with some Duracell batteries 8 years ago. I put the remote in a drawer and forgot about it. When I moved I found it, put new batteries in and it worked. Such is life of products these days.
I did get a new one. Maybe I’m just lucky and have two broken brand new injectors. Nah, not that lucky
I think it’ll work because that’s what most of us use. Works every day. Try one, if it doesn’t work, then you’ve a problem somewhere else.

You don’t need the fancy injector with the blue orifice. Just get a brass GP injector that’s cheaper then that thing and works better. Everyone uses it for a reason. I bought like 10 injectors and since I have the schertz box I haven’t changed it out since January because it’s always being rinsed with fresh water. You don’t need a stronger pull. All you need to wash vinyl houses is half a percent. If you need a stronger mix for stucco or other surfaces then invest* in a 12v, air, or gas pump setup meant for applying chems at higher strengths.
Fancy one has a purpose. I can carry straight bleach and dilute it with the orifice. It’s not any different other than that, except it had a weak oring that blows out more often. It’s got pros and cons
If i read that right, the GP I use is 18-1. I don’t dilute my sh at all so I carry it straight too. I believe a while ago you said the plastic orifices break easily. I’d be willing to try if I had the stainless steel orifices. I just can’t see a huge difference enough to break away from the $15 ones that work great
Gotcha, we dilute 12.5 three to one. Orifice let’s is do that without mixing water. I’ve got stainless barbs, but you can’t buy them.
