You’re not having any issues Alex?
So far, so good. I’m using a flow actuated unloader; I’m guessing that’s easier on the injector. I very rarely run high pressure, since 95% of what I’m doing is housewashing. And when I do need pressure for surface cleaning, I use the injector bypass.
I’m also basically a part time power washer, since more than 50% of my work is still window cleaning. So I haven’t put a ton of hours on the injector.
Had my first failure with this injector last week. The O-ring went out. Pulled it apart and found that it appears to be a standard rubber o-ring (black instead of brown). Also didn’t realize that there’s an o-ring around the kynar nipple fitting, which kind of shredded itself when disassembled.
I was able to replace the main o-ring that the ball seats against with a viton one out of a gp acid injector rebuild kit. And after trying a couple out of my parts bin, I found a spare o-ring that fit around the nipple fitting properly. The injector has been going strong since.
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Once I swapped them out viton O-rings I haven’t had a single problem again with the O-rings
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Viton o-rings come in brown AND black. If it’s black you can tell if it’s Viton by bouncing it. Viton will not rebound / bounce.
I spent a half hour last night replacing injectors from the three that crapped out during the day. The ones with the red insert over the Oring seem to last longer.
Just seen this on Facebook. I can go through a lot of GP injectors for that price.
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So, a $20 high pressure check valve, a <$20 injector, a reducing coupler/nipple, and a hose barb fitting… and maybe 5 minutes of assembly = $155 product.
Wish I had thought of that 
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Bob makes the best one without a spring. At about 2/3’s the price of that contraption
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Now’s your chance to invent the dual cranking reels. I thought about you and the reels last night when researching 4-stroke friction drive engines and clutches for road bikes. Google one. You’ll see what I’m getting at.
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Those are the moped kits that just mount over the back tire, right?
I’m trying to see how that could be implemented for hose reels… 
I’m assuming those kits use a centrifugal clutch that engages as the motor is revved up?
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For my situation, I’m envisioning an electric motor mounted below the bed, with a single belt going up to both reels. Have a clutch of some sort (I bet a cheap A/C clutch from a car would work well) on the pulley/flywheel thingy of each reel.
Turn on the motor, and then press on activate the flywheel-clutch to engage the reel I want to wind up.
But I’m no engineer… 
The more I’m thinking about it, the more this really makes sense. I bet those A/C clutches can handle quite a bit of torque, obviously handle a long life-cycle, and have a fairly low power requirement to engage. So fewer burnt out momentary switches and other components.
The motors would hold up better with fewer on/off cycles.
Weight and space savings as already mentioned…
I might have to redact this whole section of the thread in a little while…
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Just watched your video @squidskc. When you say step down on the injector for this one would that be the same for fleet washing? I am at 4.8GPM right now at 100’ of hose. Should I get the 1-3GPM injector, that’s what you meant by stepping down right?
And here is an odd question I tried to find but searching here is pretty hard. If I went to a 1-3GPM injector could I pull soap at a higher psi? Or would I need to go to a 5-8GPM injector?
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Yes, you can. It’s all about the pressure differential that’s created across the injector orifice. I think you need at least a few hundred, maybe a thousand psi difference between what’s created at the injector orifice, vs. what you have at the spray nozzle on your gun in order for the venturii vacuum to work. You also have to account for some pressure loss in the hose. But 100’ isn’t much
A 1-3 gpm injector will be pretty restrictive on a 4.8 gpm machine, though. I would go with a 2-4, unless you plan on running an injector bypass when rinsing.
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Your good @ 100’ ,150 ’ of 3/8 usually. But if you go longer you’ll have to step down to create the venturi affect to draw the appropriate ratio of chem.
Not sure how much this will help but what you said above made me think of it. It might be a simpler way of doing things. I have a rear tine tiller. The belt just basically spins a little loose. To engage the tines you squeeze the handle (think push mower) which just uses a cable to push a pulley up against that belt. The pulley is on a spring loaded bracket that retracts on its own. You could almost just have a pulley attached to a lever and wouldn’t even need a cable. Push the lever to push pulley towards belt. You’d probably still want it spring loaded so the lever isn’t bouncing around loose. It kind of depends on location of the the levers and if it’s convenient. You might still want to use a throttle cable just so you can locate the levers where ever you want.
That’s an interesting solution. My single stage snow blowers work on the same principle.
I’m thinking you would need two belts using this method, one for each reel.
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Any way you can let us know which one. Would love to buy a bunch. Mine last anywhere from a couple of uses to a few months… literally a crap shoot. Once i open them up the spring is all rusted up and it doesnt work. We buy the BE brand for 25$ (which i hate) and the only good thing about them is that once they die, i can take out the 3/8 stainless steel male adapter and re-use it for my guns/surface cleaner.
I’ve got at least a hundred from him. Just call and order them. They aren’t on his site.
Is it better than the super sudsucker from envirospec
