I just would like to thank everyone for their input to my earlier posts. I have gone the route of in it for the long haul and am building out a new 6x10 Appalachian enclosed trailer. It is coming along well and is taking up all my free time.
I have the Herculiner down 18" around the base and fully on the ramp. I have to say I would recommend it. I couldn’t come up with an answer of how many bottles of raptor liner to buy and I also didn’t want black. $120 a gallon (cheaper for black) and 2 gallons was perfect. Stuff seams like it will hold up really well, very aggressive treading. Time I guess will tell. The rest is currently being painted.
I settled on the Predator/Udor gear drive build. The only Honda I could get was a 660 for $1600 and I think that I can use that money well elsewhere in the business. I finished my mounting table today. Here is the frame that is made with 2" angle iron throughout. The top plate is about 1/4" steel. I plan on placing 8 vibration pads under the plate on top of the frame. 2 on the short and 3 on the long. The table is 16"x29". Do you think there should be more? I have a 13 gallon tank that will be fitting under the table. I will bolt 2 crossmembers on and then secure the tank with additional ratcheting straps. Table + Plate are probably about 80 lbs.
Will be feeding with a 100 gallon tank. I got it from my work. It is originally an industrial chem applicator that already has a 1", 3/4" and 1/2" hoses plumbed in. Pretty much perfect for me. The 1" is a suction hose with inline strainer already there. I will be running 1" suction hose to the machine. I am thinking of upping the 3/4" to a 1.5" line with 3 way ball. One to be use as a dump line and the other to possibly then run a 1.5" gravity fed line to my 4 gpm original machine. I know they don’t have suction but I thought this will provide enough flow. Saw a chart in one of my readings on flow rate through a 1.5" hose and it was impressive. This is secondary to me getting everything up and running at this point anyway.
Any thoughts are appreciated. Will update at is comes along. I always have enjoyed reading trailer builds and I certainly am open for ideas. Blessings!
Just a side note, you will have water spills in your trailer. I’ve had several now and thankfully I did the ‘bathtub’ thing with the flooring.
I got all set up to wash a nasty house today and happened to see water cascading out the back. Turns out my Hudson valve separated and the tank overflowed. That little stop screw on the side had backed out.
Couple weeks ago my injector blew and sprayed water all over the place. Good times.
Thanks for the replies. That’s what I found at the scrap yard, so 2" is what it is. I stood on the plate and it didn’t move!! Hopefully stuff is starting to go in the trailer tomorrow. Let’s just say to remember to wear your PPE when using an angle grinder or you might waste $213 and a 1/2 day’s pay to get this removed from your eye
@Joemo240 - no I didn’t replace it yet. I figure I will maybe after this season. For $23 it’s worth it. Just too much other things to do right now. Can’t beat the HF extended warranty. For 2 years you can literally just swap out the engine. Heck, I was encouraged to bring it back in and get a new one by the employees.
@dcbrock - No way I way I am investing this kind of cash without protecting it as much as I can. I hear you on the water issue. I know they are going to come.
I once read an article on a guy in Africa that was some sort of a Shaman or something and he specialized in removing debris from the tribal member’s eyes with his tongue.
That’s funny b/c after the doc pulled out the shard of steel she said there was a little rust left in there. That’s when she broke out the drill…literally
Bon voyage to the old rig. It made it’s final trip from storage to my house. Served me well
Able to get all of the components into the trailer and got the layout I believe is where I want.
Predator is mounted and ready to do the 3 hour recommended unloaded break in period at less than max throttle. Udor support is in place. All I need to do is turn the key when I get home tonight. Not sure if I like the battery cables on that side as it is a little in the way when pouring in gas but I can move later once the pump is on. But everything is solid.
For $300 I could have gotten a 6x12 and had an extra 2’ for storage and space but that’s water over the damn. The plan is to bolt the buffer tank to the floor where it is but turned around so the bulkhead located lower in the tank is pointing to the rear of the trailer. I have a 35 gallon tank for my SH that I plan to put e-track on the wall to strap to. that will also help to offset the weight of the washer and reels on the L side of the trailer. I currently have a 15 gallon tank for my soap to put next to but it is overkill as I will never use that much soap and will convert into a batch mix tank for the 12v if I ever have a need to so so.
That’s the plan so far. Our rule of thumb is to always multiply the time that you think it is going to take you x3 and you are probably close. I have to say I think that that is really a x5 at this point. It’s coming along though.
it appears to be taken through a side door…I’d block up that door with 'em and reel them from standing outside, kills both the last 2 comments with one move
@Clean_Blue I appreciate the table idea. I am a physical therapist by trade pressure washing is a second field for me and makes a lot of sense. I’ve been rolling them standing next to them up on the tailgate and they only sat 4" off the bed. Makes good ergonomic sense. I am planning to add a 3rd reel in the future stacked on top. Would put the SW reel on bottom since I use that the least.
I think most open trailer builds that I see have their reels curb side and not tail side, so I guess I don’t see the big difference between pulling the hose out the door curb side. I always walked out straight anyway. My worry was that I won’t be able to pull the ramp down all the time which would then screw me pulling out the back. @Innocentbystander that was my theory. But will think about that a bit. They’re not bolted down yet. That’s why I put on the muffler extension and pointed it up so I would crack the ram door at least for ventilation.
I wouldn’t block the side door. I would lose all access to the storage area so I think that idea is out but appreciate the thought @JAtkinson
If you don’t have barn doors on the back you don’t need to mount anything in there yet. Either sell it or put barn doors on it. As it is, your trailer is not feasible to work out of
I am planning the plumbing to my soft wash system (5.5 gpm 12v) and had read that from the proportioner to the 12v pump should be 3/4" tubing according to Racer but could not definitively find the answer as to what size tubing is feeding the SH/Water into the proportioner: 1/2" or 3/4". Just wondering what guys are running. I ran 5/8" into the pump when I was straight batch mixing and was fine.
On my 5.5 and 7, I run 1/2" into proportioner. On my truck build I have 1/2" going from pump to reel I think and it’s about a 10’ run. I’ll check later today, but pretty sure.
1/2" hose with even 40psi at 10-12’ length flows at 15 gpm so I quit worrying about it too much on intake side long as I don’t have bunch of 90’s
