I’m having a problem with the wood furring on this fence. it’s old, it has never been sealed and I’m using a product called RE-NEW-ALL at 10 to 1 mixture, letting it soak for about 15 minutes and then using about 700 PSI being careful not to get right up on the wood but I’m still getting this result. Any ideas?
This forum is cool. You can do this [MENTION=6909]Russ Johnson[/MENTION] and he’ll show up to give some insight. I hope.
Edit:
Re-New-All Roof & Deck Cleaner Concentrate
This product has changed the way professional contractors clean asphalt shingles and decks. Re-New-All Roof & Deck Cleaner is a 7 to 1 concentrate that safely removes failed stains, sealants, mold and mildew from decks, docks, cedar shake shingles and fencing. When used on asphalt shingles, mold, mildew, tree sap and fungus, it can be gently sprayed away with less than 150 P.S.I. Re-New-All Roof & Deck contains no acids, solvents, chlorine, phosphates or peroxides and is biodegradable. It will not kill grass or shrubs.
Thanks but I’m pretty sure that the cause of this is not the product I’m using, After thinking about it I believe that it’s because we got two solid days of rain and the wood was thoroughly soaked before even starting to clean it.
As weird as it sounds the customer wanted me to go ahead and continue even with the furring and and actually said that she was fine with it because she wanted the rustic aged look.
I’m just asking for future reference and I’m in no way insinuating that this product had anything to do with the furring, just wondering what I might’ve been doing that I can avoid it in case I run into a customer in the future who isn’t happy about it.
That’s cool [MENTION=167]Steve[/MENTION]. I would think that any product Russ puts out is top shelf. I am not a wood guy and don’t want to become one. My course of action would have been a dilute roof mix and 160 psi. The issue for your fence could have been the pressure. You can also fur wood if you use stronger stripper than needed.
Neutralizer should take care of that. The white anyway. The furring has to be sanded, which sucks.
Andrew J. Theis
Integrated Power Washing
Warner Robins, GA
Fuzzies are the grey old dead weathered wood fibers. Sometimes I get them sometimes I don’t. You can use a de furring pad to get rid of them.
John Devine. allwashedupny.com
Re-New-All is made to go on dry wood for better penetration. Since the wood was already wet, the 1:10 dilution got higher as soon as it hit the surface. The fact that the wood was old and never sealed probably contributed to a “dead layer” on the surface.
To me the pictures look like the product you used didnt let the dead layer of wood fully release from the good wood if that makes sense. Maybe the dwell time was not long enough or the product was not strong enough to accomplish this.
The other factor is 700 psi is kind of low for wood work. I use more.
Lee
Wood will furr for two reasons: A) usually because the pressure was too high, or B) and sometimes because of simply water on an unstained and cleaned wood.
Too strong of a chemical solution and too long of a dwell will also cause it. If the wood was just weathered it doesn’t take much to bring it back. The goal is too restore the wood without getting down deep into it causing the surface to break down and wood fibers to raise.
It happens to all the wood guys. It doesn’t mean you did anything wrong. It’s just the nature of the beast.
John Devine. allwashedupny.com
Not true. We spend a great deal of time teaching guys how to evaluate chemical needs for the different job types out there. You actually have a great deal of control over how much buffing/sanding you will have to do in the end. That’s not to say you can avoid it at all times but even when stripping products like BEHR acrylic there are measures to minimize furring and most revolve around concentration and dwell time.
MOST newbies fur the hell out of everything.
Yeah I can vouch for that!!! Lol did some benches today that I thought were stained. F18 wouldn’t touch it. Not sure what it was. Musta been paint
Andrew J. Theis
Integrated Power Washing
Do yall notice more furring with wood in a vertical upright position as opposed to horizontal and flat? I just want to get some thoughts on this! I really like fooling with the wood and I want to study and learn more
I can fur anything something horrible if I want to. Generally though with a little understanding of what a finish will take to get it off you can do so without significant furring regardless of its orientation. There really is a large learning curve when it comes to delivering what the finish needs for efficient removal but a lot of its trial and error. If your mixing up the same batch of stripper for every deck out there your likely creating a lot of sanding for yourself. We have 4 base solution levels (SL1 to SL4) we use and the recommended mix is noted on the work order from the day it is estimated. This gives our crews a foundation to work from and they adjust from there.
After thinking on this a while, I think I know why I seem to get more furring on vertical. I have yet to see ANY on horizontal. I think its all in the application process of the sealer being removed and possibly my mix to remove it. It only stands to reason that there is less of both hitting and penetrating the vertical woods as opposed to accumualtion and penetration on horizontial. Just my wheels spinning…
I agree. Every time I strip one I think that I should mix in something so I can use a foamer. Maybe some roof snot or something that would keep it on there and actually deliver some real dwell time.
