What happens when I mix f-10(sodium PreCarb) and vinegar?


Yeah so far I have done about 20 homes, all with SH and E-lemonator. Concrete with the same or a dash of Sodium Hydroxide. I Wear a respirator at all times now. At first I didnt but I started getting headaches and weird lung feeling. Understandable You can turn down homes that are tricky if you have a large business set-up already, but I could use every job I can get. Down where I’m at, there is a fair ammount of “dirty” houses, and not much fungus. When I wipe my finger on em, i litterly get a black streak of dirt.
Also why I asked if anyone else knew or had experience mixing those 2 before i went out and made a toxic cloud that swept through the town lol. I wear long sleeves and goggles and dont worry too much about the few drops that get on me here and there.

but if anything I guess ill try it at home first, see if anything crazy happens, or if it even works!


Degreaser in your hw mix will help. Extra surfactant will also help. Be careful with the degreaser. If too much is used it will take off paint. It’s not a cure all. Sometimes it works, others you have to scrub.


You can mix them. Don’t think it will clean will, but they can be mixed

Hydrogen Peroxide / Sodium Percarbonate - Hydrogen peroxide is a liquid and Sodium percarbonate is a powder that breaks down into hydrogen peroxide, making it basically a concentrated, solid form of hydrogen peroxide. They are color removers. Don’t mix with vinegar.

Salt - Regular table salt, not sea salt, works the best for household use. It helps set colors, so should not be used on stains, but is also a disinfectant.

Sodium Bicarbonate / Sodium Carbonate - These are both alkalines that neutralize acids in spit, urine, milk, and food. Sodium bicarbonate is a very safe chemical also known as baking soda. Sodium bicarbonate, known as washing soda, is twice as powerful and more caustic than baking soda. If you can’t find washing soda, you can substitute it with twice as much baking soda. Don’t mix either with vinegar.

Vinegar - An acid that neutralizes detergent buildup and blood. Vinegar is useful when used as a rinse in the washing machine. Don’t mix with sodas, hydrogen peroxide, or bleach.

Isopropyl Alcohol - Isopropyl alcohol is a non-edible alcohol. It helps dissolve glues and oils that soaps do not. It is also a very good disinfectant.

Orange Oil - A solvent that removes glue, oil, and paint.

Borax - Borax is somewhat toxic and should not be taken internally nor used on dishes and silverware. It can sometimes cause rashes, so should be used with care on baby items. However, it is a powerful anti-fungal when you have problems with yeast infections, mold or mildew.

OxyClean - Contains washing soda and sodium percarbonate, plus other secret additives.

Bon Ami - Contains feldspar and limestone for abrasion, soap, and baking soda.

Bac-out - Contains enzymes and botanical extracts. Good for removing organic compounds like spit, poop, urine, milk, and food.


Nice. Looks good to me. thank you, I have read some of that hear and there, but reading it all over again and in one spot refreshed my memory. Thanks. I will try using some Precarb directly, or x-jet on surfaces and see how it does. If no dice, guess ill try doubling my simple cherry or e-lemonator with just a 1:5 bleach and rinse twice.


If black gutters are turning white, your mix is drying on the surface and you need to work smaller areas. In SoCal the air is both warm and dry. Tuff combo for housewashing.


My wife helps me look for my glasses all the time knowing they are pushed up on my head. I usually find them when I look on the bathroom counter and see them on my noggin in the mirror.


Lol. That was supposed to be in the old man thread


This. It happened enough that I now generally check there first! :sunglasses:


Talk to some of your peers out there. I agree SH not going to do squat to help you probably. Just get a good soap. I don’t use SH on my dishes, but they come clean. Try some ebc or Limonene. I’d call J Racenstein. They have a CA office in Santa Ana and ask them what they recommend.


Buy some green wash, EBC and limonene. Ive seen all 3 of those clean well for brick/stone and none organic matter. Give each one a try. They all have their uses so it wouldn’t be a waste of money.


If you must go to Santa Ana, I recommend wearing neutral colors and keep to yourself. Lol


I have seen green wash and EBC. I thought EBC was more for removing grease and oil? Is it safe to put in my regular house wash? I also assumed green wash was just like, simple cherry or e-lemonator or fresh wash. You say green wash has a better effect on brick and dirt?


The original question was regarding CA.You can use a lot of different soaps for more than one thing. Green Wash is a SH booster, originally made for roof cleaning. It smells great and just so happens works remarkably well on painted surfaces and windows. But it’s twice the cost of Elemonator.

EBC is a degreaser that was developed in CA and used for a lot of projects there because it is enviro friendly. Do need to be careful and not let dry on windows, but that’s true of most soaps. The original question mentioned soot, which EBC does a good job on.

Limonene is a product made by Envirospec out of GA. Cleans brick and most things better than most, but is exceptional on brick. However it’s a long way from GA to CA, though it’s sold as a powder that you mix yourself, but still would have some freight considerations in cost.

Moral of the story is that you have to take answers in the context of the question. And find out if there are soaps that are available locally that may work for you, especially in CA since nobody wants to even sell to them because of their goofy laws. Experiment and test everything for yourself.


One thing not yet mentioned by our peers is oxidation. You mentioned running your finger across the siding and I immediately went back in time a little over a year to when I discovered vertical stains running down the siding that weren’t there before I started. @Racer was there to coach me away from leaving those stains, but on several occasions, I had to use a water fed pole and brush to brush off the residue left behind on oxidized siding. You won’t know whether the cleaner you’re using is going to leave residue until after it’s already there.

When you run your finger across the siding, look for the chalky color of the siding. If excessive, you may have bigger problems when you’re done than you had before you took the job. There are many opportunities out there that will cost you far more than you stand to earn, excessively oxidized siding jobs among them.


I can’t believe no one @ 'ed me, LOL!

Yes, it’s safe to mix…no I don’t see the point.

Agree, if you don’t want to use SH use a surfactant house wash mix with a LITTLE bit of degreaser.


I have read about this oxidation and all the trouble is causes. From needing to scrub and needing to use degreaser etc. I think I ran into some light cases here and there but nothing major yet. I did the finger test and got a little chalk, told the customer what I read on here about oxidation, and I washed with a weak mix and lower pressure and it came out looking pretty good.


A little being 1oz per gallon? Can I mix let’s say, I have 15 gallon tank: 10 gal water, 5 gal SH, 15 oz of e-lemonator, and 1oz degreaser? Or more than that.


Here is the problem, not all surfactants and degreasers are made equal.

Here is what I know:

  1. SH doesn’t CLEAN anything…but it bleaches out everything so it looks clean.
  2. Water alone won’t clean much, you need a surfactant to break the surface tension, allowing the water to go over the surfaces much easier.
  3. Elemonator is not a house wash in my opinion. It is a surfactant that assists in breaking the surface tension but it in itself is not classified as a HW…more of an odor masking agent for SH. I haven’t seen it being used without SH…maybe I missed it shrug
  4. there are HW’s for sale that both wash houses and have degreasers in them already. DILUTE as directed or you could strip the paint.
  5. I don’t know what 5 is but having only 4 seemed silly


As @Racer has pointed out, all siding oxidizes. The key is to remove ALL of the chems you’ve put on the siding, AND long before it dries. Surfactant is by nature a little sticky… Others may coach you differently, but I wouldn’t use much more than a 1/2 cup of surfactant for 15 gallons and increase if you aren’t getting the results.