The other day my 3/8" viton o rings came and I switched up my different rings with them since most were pretty worn out.
Then yesterday my whip line hose burst and today my gray yamatic pressure hose burst…
I get the whip line bursting since it came with the pressure washer and was of lower quality but this gray one I bought at the start of the season.
My pressure washers rated for 4400 PSI and the pressure hose for 4200… could this be why the hose didn’t make it through the season?
Also I’m pretty sure the o rings fit well, the ones I had before were some lower quality ones from amazon that were a little smaller and I had to change almost daily.
Could these rings have made the pressure a bit higher hence the bursts?
I was hoping to make it through this season and upgrade my setup in the winter downtime. I’ll probably use the smaller washer I have for now that’s around 3k PSI although has less GPM.
4400 is grossly excessive. Is that what your unloader is set at?
I bought the standard grey hose from Southside back in April, it popped on me a month ago, smack in the middle. Not sure what’s up with that, I usually get a full season out of it.
I blew a hose today that I’ve been running since 2021. I run 50 foot sections & that one was the 3rd hose back from the gun, so I just deleted it & finished up. Age & dry rot got that one but I have 2 spares ready to go. I’ll order another one so I’ll have 2 spares again. Fix it up & send it! My 4/4 days I was showing 3950 psi right off the pump & it took a year to blow a hose.
I wish there was some SH neutralizer I could run through my pressure hose right after I get done downstreaming. All my hoses have popped due to rust weakening the wire.
Ive never seen in real life a “jrod” or can imagine anybody using one. I like my handle as light as possible. I keep my nozzles in my shirt pocket. I really only use one for most everything. It puts out about 1300 psi. Change the diameter of tip orifice and pressure changes accordingly
J-rod is my favorite tool. Change the tip it pulls soap change it again it rinses. Easy and I wouldn’t consider it heavy. I’d end up losing the tips if they weren’t welded together.
I honestly don’t see the hype in having something else to go wrong or break. If my set up gives me issues it’s more than likely the injector and in a matter of seconds it’s swapped with a new spare and bam back at it. I know a lot of you guys love those extra gadgets. I do understand how they could be convenient, but I suppose I don’t wash enough for it to be a, game changer.
I bought a few of those heavier duty injectors and I’m on about 3-4 months use time with the first one with no problems.
I tried out the ones on amazon but they would last like 1-3 days.
Tbh I’m not sure what the point of the DS remote is when I can just switch out my jrod. I guess that’s more tailored for soft wash setups where you’d have to go back in the truck to turn off the chem line via proportioner?
Downstreaming there’s no point in a ds remote when I can just switch out chem with the jrod nozzle imo
I use all four of my nozzles, and for me there are definitely times when I need a low pressure rinse without soap. I’ll usually rinse down all windows with plain water first, switch on SH and coat the whole side. Switch off and hit the 2nd story gutters with HP shooter nozzle to knock off the 10 years worth of dirt and organics, then switch on and soak with LP shooter tip.
Once the side has marinated I rinse with LP fan tip.
Believe me a remote is a godsend. If you REALLY want to get efficient there is a bypass remote so you get better flow for surface cleaning.
Yeah mine is the TeeJet two way valve with 600’ remote in a cheap box mounted on the wall of my trailer. One line goes into my 50 gallon vertical SH tank, then the other line back to the injector on my new manual bypass I picked up this summer. To confirm the valve is working I put a bright flashing LED strobe on top of the trailer. I can turn soap on/off behind a two story house no problem.
The veterans on here showed me how to piece it together, a whole lot cheaper than buying a pre-built one. Looking back I should have done the three way for injector rinsing but works fine.
As I mentioned there are so many times when you need a plain water, LP fan rinse and this does the trick. Both the GP and Dez’s injector still pull SH at 1500 fan which surprised me.
My injector pulls from a T connector. One side goes to SH & the other to the buffer tank with a 1/4 poly ball valve on each. Also a check valve on the water side. Both valves all the way open will pull 4 gallons of water & 2 gallons of SH. Every time I rinse, it’s pulling water through the injector. My last one got ~100 hours of use & I used to burn through them like crazy. House wash mix tends to give me a nasty rash on my forearms. This year I’ve seen a 90% improvement by keeping a bucket of fresh water by the rig so every time I walk back to turn soap on or off, I rinse my arms down with clean water. Either way, rinsing with soap nozzles is definitely the way to roll. Especially if you double your GPM.
So my whip line burst the first day I was there for the job, second day the pressure hose burst, and today my injector wasn’t pull chem… it was on and off.
The injector itself is good cause when I blow air into it the spring and ball open / close. This time I think it’s the siphon tube probably worn out. I ordered a new one and a couple more heavy duty ones.
Hopefully this solves the problem cause I told him 4th times the last charm…
I had spares of mostly everything in the van except that siphon tube.
AHAS - Always have a spare
I feel like such an idiot having to go back for a FOURTH TIME
So your injector supply tube, is it just the nylon reinforced or the wire reinforced? I had an issue the first couple years with the hose getting soft and collapsing with the suction.
