Hey guys I am having a problem with all of my chemical injectors. When I pull the trigger the suck chemical perfectly fine but as soon as I let off the trigger water immediately starts going through the injector and into the chemical tank. What is causing this? I have looked on the forum and can’t find the correct words to type to find any topics on this issue.
Your injector had failed, replace it. There is a small check valve inside the injector to prevent this from happening. Injectors are consumable items and keep a handful of them on your truck. If each one is failing then you’ve got something else up. Can you post a picture of your injector step up?
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Shoot… I hope that all of my injectors aren’t messed up. I will order some replacements and see if that helps. Just to be clear, after you’re done using the chemical and you rinse out the line, is there another step that you do with the injector before putting it away?
Other than replace it every few weeks when it dies (or replace it with the newfangled one making the rounds on the forum here)…that about covers it. Ours average about 3-4 weeks at full production, toss it and replace.
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I used to downstream water through my injectors at the end of the job or at the end of the day (if I didn’t forget) & drop it into a bucket of water when not in use. Nowadays whenever I’m rinsing, I’m downstreaming water from the buffer tank. The life of my injectors seems to have tripled. An inline check valve keeps SH from back-siphoning into the buffer tank. It’s wise to keep several handy. I carry 3 different sizes.
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Had this happen to me last year. I started with 20 gallons, did a large house and had…25 gallons. I was upset to say the least.
A GP injector has a ball, rubber o-ring and spring check valve in the stem. If that spring breaks the pressurized water will flow back into the bleach tank.
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i wonder if all we really need, but no an end all, to extend the life of a injector is a titanium spring and ball.
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Man i hear that. Everybody seems to have made a solution to everything else except that. You would think it woukd be a simple fix right? Or maybe its just like medicine, if they find a solution to fix it they wont have any recurring clients:person_shrugging:t4:
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Would a 1/4” check valve stop this from happening? I wonder if it would cause problems with the distribution of sh……
I was thinking the same thing - it would prevent what happened to @dcbrock at least.
I found bilge pump check valves made out of plastic on Amazon that I’m using for my dual 12v pumps - so far - so good. They were pretty cheap.
3/4 inch Boat Bilge Pump Check Valve, https://a.co/d/be5GP99
Bob made an injector without a spring but there wasn’t really market street the first one sold because they lasted so long. Make sure your hose isn’t clamped to the injector barb do when the spring goes you don’t fill up your tank.
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You don’t clamp the hose? What about air leaks? I had to really crank mine down on every fitting to keep air out.
It’s a hose on an injector barb. It’s not going to suck any air as long as you use poly braid. Just make it about a 3 ft longer than you need so you can cut off an inch every month or so so it stays snug.
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We pull ours of the barb all the time to unscrew the orifice or or it back in
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I started with poly but with my enclosed trailer the hose would flatten from the heat so I switched to wire reinforced.
I used the same braided line off the injector for 8 years and never clamped it or cut it down. Never had a spring break either. Must be an 8 gal problem. I just got my rig setup. With 8 gal and a diaphragm pump i dont need the injector anymore!
happy days ahead for sure
Why would you not need the injector anymore? I’m confused 
Set the proprtioner to HW mix. Diaphragm pump applies mix. 8 gal comes behind to rinse. It was alot of fun. That 8 gal really rinses great!
So you went back to a dual hose system? You’ll probably be downstreaming again by the summer, lol.
That’s a really hard way to wash, but I bet you’re competition likes it 
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