I have a prospect that wants a quote to wash a metal sided building so they can repaint. I am trying to decide if I want to bid it. Regardless, I would like to provide the owner with some options & or considerations for possible concerns with how they ultimately approach it, and educate myself on the subject.
Here is some info:
-They plan to re-paint it themselves with an airless sprayer.
-It’s and older building (that houses a profitable business) and they are wanting the siding prepped for good adhesion of a fresh coat of paint.
-The metal is dark brown and is heavily oxidized but otherwise not very dirty with almost no organic.
I can’t seem to find much info on how well (or not well) new, quality paint will bond to oxidized metal. Does anyone have any experience here? I am assuming to do it correctly, it should be de-oxidized with a full treatment of something like Gutter Butter, Gutter Grenade, or similar. (i.e. wet down, product applied with brush, agitation, and rinse)
What would be worst case scenario if it were just soft washed and no oxidation removal?
Any former painters or oxidation specialist out there who have dealt with this & can offer advice or knowledge?
Thanks for any input. I’ll keep searching for info in other places and will share if I find any conclusive data.
If there going to re paint then I’d go two different routes.
Get some “film fighter” from Hydro Chem in Grand Rapids, MI. It’s very caustic and I’ve used before on oxidized pole barn. Followed up with there “ Blue Fusion” which is a mix of organic acid salts. Both run around $50 for a 5 gallon pail. Give them a call and talk to Chad or Gabriel. Good guys
Use a product from “Bio Kleen” that’s located in Kalamazoo,MI that is called a “oxidization remover”. Not sure what’s in it…I used on some oxidized storage units and had good results.
Call them and you can order a 5 gallon pail for $65
Just finished with him. I’m going to bid the job with thier products. Either the Blue Fusion or the M-37
Got to talking with Chad about rust removal on concrete. I’m cleaning limestone on a large middle school & they have about 20000 sf of concrete with rust staining from snow plows so I was curious about their products as an alternative to F9 BARC as it is so $$$$. Anyway, thanks for the tip! If I do the project, I’ll let you know how it goes. FYI - I was in Kalamazoo way back when for a Rugby match at Wright Pat AFB. Had a great time. Cool town!
I’ve never used it but I’m guessing he told you about there product that has hydrochloric acid in it but it’s not deadly like muratic? @CaCO3Girl has talked about this before …somehow it’s altered to hydrochlous? I believe. Either way Hydro Chem is top notch
IBS, Thank you for the info!! would you suggest first washing with standard SH / Surfactant mix to remove surface dirt and organics prior to the gutter wash? or would that be redundant?
It converts to Urea Hydrochloride. Non fuming, ships as non hazardous due to a loophole in the 49CFR that says if it’s only corrosive to metals it can ship as non hazardous. It’s good stuff…but don’t expect it to work as fast as muriatic or oxalic on rust. Rule of thumb, if you don’t have to use a vapor mask to apply the acid it’s not going to work as fast as you’d like.
I HIGHLY recommend you do a dwell time test to get your concentration and timing down before you go wasting a pails worth of expensive chemical. We guess at those directions, no two stains or two surfaces act alike.
