Hey Guys,
So recently I keep braking the 90 degree elbow off my pump to my unloader… I think it’s safe to say it’s time for an unloader remote block??
$22 headache relief and cheap insurance all in one.
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Done!! On the way
Mine jus blew for second time how do the unloader block make it better? How do I set it up, 2 whip lines?
An unloader block keeps the weight of the unloader off of the pump. It also helps my allowing less vibration. You’ll need another whip line. Mount the unloader block wherever you like. Remove unloader from pump. Run a whip line from the pump to unloader block. Install unloader on block. You should be able to reuse your current whip line that goes from the unloader to hose reel.
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Thanks so much
Can you show me a pic of how it’s mounted to the block plz
Nothing from the hardware store is going to work. You’ll need a high pressure fitting from a hydraulics shop or an unloader block from pressuretek is $30.
With the k7 you can just connect it with a whip line to the pump and lay the k7 on the trailer floor if you’re so inclined. Here’s how I mounted it to a trailer I built.
Here’s how an unloader block works: unloader block attaches somewhere solid = red arrow
Whip line from pump to unloader. = blue arrow
Pressure line out = yellow arrow
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if you use a flow controlled unloader…unloader blocks is useless.
The issues might not having a block, it could be your using a crap unloader or not set properly.
Damn I can’t type tonight, you know what I mean
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I think I got it right
I think I set it ok had the gauge on it and adjusted that one nut backed it out I think. Did it last year.
Seems to be working, does it look right?
Looks good, but id ditch those quick connects… More parts to replace when they fail
What’s going on right here? It looks like you’ve still got the factory installed sediment trap and garden hose coupling?
That’s a lot of weight to be hanging off the inlet threads of your pump. Remove the trap assembly, and get a “king nipple” that goes from 3/4” mpt to 1.5” barb (I’m assuming that’s the sizes you’re dealing with; 8 gpm pump, right?). Then have a small length of the suction hose before your camlock. (Technically, you really shouldn’t use camlocks for a suction application, but I’ve done it for the last several years without issue. The better alternative would be a flange connection)
Other small critiques:
- Move your ds injector to the reel, You don’t want bleach leaking down onto you fancy k7
- Use JIC swivel connectors to mount your unloader to the block. This will make changing it out easier in the future.
- Use a longer hose for your soap line, so you can route it around your equipment, not over it.
- Steel bands for mounting larger water tanks. Not ratchet straps
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