My thermal relief valve was discharging water after I shut my machine off the other day. I havent tried it since but this is unusual for my machine. Advice or experience?
I’m going to purchase two relief valves from pressuretek but not sure the temperature rating I should pick. There is a 145 and a 190.
I have a Legacy 4k psi cold water pump.
We’re you using hot water at a restaurant or something? Sometimes restaurants have hot water on their outdoor faucets. I messed up a di tank like that once.
No it was residential but the outside temp was 100 degree. No hot water.
Check your oil. Your engines running too hot.
Same thing happened to me with a new pump and machine that I put together. It worked fine for a week then started loosing pressure and would leak from the relief valve after the machine was shut off. While comparing the pump to my other pumps, I realized that the relief valve was installed opposite to my water inlet and not on the unloader. The other thing was, It would work fine from a water spigot.
It’s installed right. Oil is good. Guess it is time to run the bypass line and get rid of the relief valve entirely.
Yeah that would be ideal anyways. You’ll be kicking your self for not doing it sooner. I can’t imagine working amd having to shut down my machine every time I’m not going to be on the trigger for more than 60 sec.
Same. I love having the bypass setup like that.
By the way Pressure Tek confirmed I should use the 145 degree relief valve for my pump.
So is the relief valve not supposed to be installed on a water inlet? Cause that’s how mine was shipped and I found it odd. Thought it would be installed on the pump outlet side
It’s installed on the inlet because the whole reason it’s there is to protect the pump from hot water coming in. The only reason hot water will come into the pump inlet is if you’re using a hot water spigot that puts out scolding water or you let your machine bypass too long back into the inlet.
Toss it and plug it. $2 @ Lowe’s. JMHO
It’s there to protect the pump if your bypassing back to the inlet. In this case the water recirculated for more than a few min can get very hot very quick. Once it hits 212, the steam causes cavitation and bad things happen. If your bypassing to the ground or int a tank its 100% unnecessary. They are prone to fail…
Got rid of mine too. If you’re all plumbed up correctly with a buffer tank, you should be able to put your hand on the pump after it’s been running a while.
If the pump is too hot to touch and your bypassing to a tank - there’s a circulation problem somewhere maybe?
Ah. Thus THERMAL. I come from operating car washes and we have our setups with PRESSURE relief valves. I thought they were one and the same and we have ours on the discharge side. So it can be plugged them as I plumbed the unloaded to the buffer tank.
Yes for sure. I do not have one. Once you run your bypass from the unloader to a buffer tank there is no need for one.
Wrong. You always need one. What happens when your unloader takes a crap? You cheesed out on a $15 part and now your pump is blown.
Maybe I’m underthinking it but how would a thermal relief valve protect the pump if the unloader fails if you’re bypassing to a tank? If an unloader goes bad it builds pressure in the output/pressure side of the head without being able to release the pressure through the bypass. The thermal valve protects the pump from hot water coming into the intake if you have the bypass routed to the intake.
If I’m wrong please explain.
