I noticed air in the suction line going to the injector, so I eliminated a couple extra fittings and put pipe dope on the threads (no teflon). The line from the SH tank is fine.
It’s better but still sucking a lot of air, so looks like it’s internal. When I shut the valve off it still draws in air once the SH has cleared. Anything I can do about this short of paying $300+ for a new one?
@Kentucky1234 any thoughts?
In case anyone needs a visual.
You think the seal on the inside is failing? That’s how I know mine is going out on the Amazon electronics ball valves…they las about a season at best.
Motorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 3 Wire Setup by U.S. Solid
I use same valve for one season and then just replace. The start to make clicking noise but work ok.
Man I don’t know, it’s the only thing I can think of that would let air in like that. It’s gotta be sucking it in from the valve body itself so maybe silicone the outside?
I think it’s had its day……not sure if you can replace the guts in those.
Update…
Got a chance to mess with it today and tightened up the valve body bolts…which didn’t do anything. For the heck of it I screwed the 1"-1/4" barb a couple more turns and that did the trick. Guess I didn’t have them in far enough. Runs clear now.
Resurrecting tjis thread a bit.
Anyone know where I can get the entire bottom ball valve assembly rather than replace the entire unit? I refreshed the seals last year but it still doesn’t completely shut off soap/bleach flow half the time.
Get the Flowpro, you won’t regret it…..
I don’t know man, I was using those blue electric valves at first and they maybe lasted anywhere from a week to a couple months. How has that one held up?
Do you just replace the ball valve itself or the whole motor assembly?
You use a dn10 ball valve, no chemicals go thru the ball valve. The main part outside the ball valve is the actuator. Nothing like those blue Amazon junk valves that last a month or two. I’ve had mine several years, amazing remote ball valve. You should try one, well worth it.
Oh no kidding, so when the ball valve wears out it’s the only part that gets replaced. Interesting.
I wonder if I can just buy that valve and mount plate, already have the remote and bypass. I sent them a message, we’ll see.
I think you can buy the actuator if you have the complete system, just in case you need an actuator if it broke. You would need to buy the whole system for 595.00, Judd the owner is a great guy and has great customer service if need be. Well worth it…..4 things that make my work more efficient - electric reels, hot water, flowpro and now the Whisper Wash Xforce bar…lol
You have all the toys dude😆
Always looking to improve and make my job easier….cause I’m not getting any younger.
I just discovered I can just get the parts I need.
It does say 1/2” or 3/8”, how do I know which size I need?
Ball valve size….mine is 3/8”
Think you will need these too.
