Spruce Shiplap Restoration

Hello everyone! Glad to be a part of this wonderful community where we can all learn from each other and hone our skills. My name is Don, and I look forward to meeting alot of like minded people on this forum!

I am currently working on an estimate for a client who wants her ranch house restored. The home is made from 6" spruce shiplap, called half round log. She would like the old stain removed, before the new stain is applied. My question is, would S-100 Finish Remover work to get the old stain out? After carefully and properly washing the S-100 off, I was going to apply an oxalic brightner, followed by stain and sealing.

I am curious to know how you would tackle this job? Would you bid this job on a hourly rate or by the square foot? What is a good rate? btw…I am located in Canada and this job is not set to begin until Spring, probably mid May. I have attached some photos for your viewing pleasure haha. IMG_8235 IMG_8475 IMG_8474 IMG_8473 IMG_8472 IMG_8468 IMG_8467 IMG_7376 IMG_8241

S-100 Finish Remover is an easy to use water-based solvent that removes most types of oil and water-based finishes. S- 100 is a gel that can be applied with a brush or an airless sprayer. Once the existing finish has softened a pressure washer is required to remove the finish. Since it is biodegradable there is no concern about contaminating the surrounding soil.

Unlike sodium or potassium hydroxide strippers, S-100 will not darken nor discolor the wood. S-100 may not be effective for removing some high performance coatings that may require a more aggressive chemical finish remover such as StripIt. We strongly recommend that you obtain and test free samples of both S-100 and StripIt before placing an order.

it doesn’t contain the two most commonly used strippers on the market, so whats in it? Metasilicate, percarbonate, butyl, tsp?


Thanks for the reply Dirtyboy! Here is a pic of the stain they used on the shiplap siding. S-100 is made of Sodium Metasilicate. Personally I have no prior experience using this product, so should i be aware of any pitfalls with this product? Yes, I have acquainted myself with the MSDS sheet, I also have ordered a sample of S-100 and will test once it arrives.

Boy those dormers are gonna be tough, huh? Is that s100 gentle enough that it’s not going to mess with the paint on that metal?

Do you know what stain is currently on there?

@Jake_Lambert yes the dormers are going to be a challenge, however I plan on renting a zoom boom so i can reach up there easily and safely. I have thought about the paint on the metal and the best information I can find is " S-100 will not darken or discolour the wood, will not corrode or discolour metal surfaces, nor will it harm log home chinking or sealants. " This does not clarify though weather or it would hurt the surface of the metal on the roof. If someone has an answer, I would love to hear your thoughts.

@qons currently they have Super Deck Log House Oil Finish on their house. IMG_8689

Are they wanting to stay with the same stain & color?

I don’t believe so. I mentioned to her that the best stain to use is one that contains no natural oils. I personally prefer to use products that are made with synthetic resins, as mildew and mold will not eat these products.

I am unfamiliar with S-100. Have you used it before? A quick google search shows that it’s a gel. It says it can go through an airless sprayer, but I’m guessing you have to work in small sections so it doesn’t dry. It seems like a painstakingly slow process to use S-100.

Have you worked with any other type of stain strippers?

Maybe @MDA1775 can help out.

No, I have not used S-100 before, however I do plan on testing it as I have a sample on its way. According to my number crunching, I would be able to do 180 sq ft per hr, from application to ready for brightner. Close estimation?

I have very little experience working with stain removers, however for what it’s worth I am a Red Seal Journyman Millwright so I feel comfortable in the tasks I proceed with. Always nice to have great input from others. Many hands ( and brains ) make light work!

Using any type of stripper around the surfaces that I see—metal, concrete, wood floor—makes me all sorts of nervous.

If you go for it, charge accordingly. Stripping it is different than cleaning it.

If it was me and I wanted the job, I’d be asking the Sherwin Williams paint rep how to prep the wood for reapplying the same stain already on it. I wouldn’t look to change stains especially if his answer is you can use SH to clean, ox to restore, and then stain it.

All I’ll say is good luck with it and I hope you’re a master taper lol

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I’ve never used S100. I’d be careful asking advice from the SW rep. Los of them are nice folks but don’t know diddly about how there products work.


I understand that an SH cleaning and an oxy bleach for restore is good. That was my original plan of attack, however I am worried that if the old stain isnt completly removed, the final product will look like garbage, especially if they dont go with the same stain. Going to talk to them and see if they are 100% sure they want to change stains

Thank you all for your help, its greatly appreciated!

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To be clear…after using the SH and cleaning it, you use oxalic acid to restore the ph balance and brighten the wood.

Yes absolutely! Thanks for the friendly reminder. I have never used SH on spruce shiplap before, so it would probably be wise to start with a low % of SH and work up from there if need be. Is there ANY possibility of the SH damaging the wood? Pretty sure I have read soemwhere, that its not a good plan to use SH on wood. Any truth to this?

If you use too strong of a mix the sh can cause the wood to fuzz. You definitely want to start low.

I’m not so sure I’d strip the siding. Test to see if it’s oil based or waterborne and apply the same type of stain. Talk them into going the same or darker. Stripping would be a tedious process on that house. I’d worry about the painted metal just rinsing the stripper off the dormers. I’m just guessing here but I’d say that’s a $10k to $15k usd job if you strip and stain.

Work must be slow as a Millwright. I’m a Journeyman Boilermaker and, they closed 3 coal fired power plants in our local, so I decided to go full time pressure washing. I’ll still hit some jobs in the winter, though. We only have 2 coal fired left in our local but also 4 nuclear. How’s work up there? I know a few guys who went up there to work but that was probably 5 years back.

Hey marinegrunt, thanks for your input! Very informative and I agree with everyhting your saying. I was going to start at about 1% SH and do an test spot and see what it does. If the mold/mildew isnt too deep, im sure it should take it off.

She currently have an oil based stain on the house and I have emailed her asking her to think about keeping the same stain as it would save a ton of time and money. The thought of rinsing the stripper has crossed my mind as well, and it bothers me what it would do her rood. I am a very meticulous person and the last thing I want to do is ruin anyone’s property. I don’t have money to pay high insurance claims. My early estimate shows the job to be around $17K CAD for strip and stain.

There is work as a Millwright, however I spent 13 years on the road away from my family so I decided to do my own venture and go into the pressure washing business. Certainly glad I made the decision. Nothing beats having more time with family. It’s funny you talk about coal fired power plants, that was teh work enviroment I was in for 13 years. Loud, dirty as all F, and VERY demanding on the body as a millwright.