Set Up/Getting Jobs

Roofs are great money but you have to be really careful and pay attention to your surroundings. Overspray, even just the mist, will wreck vegetation pretty quickly. No need to rinse, let it do its job. If the client wants immediate results, charge to come back a couple days later and rinse.

I know a lot of people donā€™t rinse, but the ARMA, who many people use as a reference to show that they are cleaning properly, state to rinse.

ā€œThe most effective method of cleaning algae and moss from a roof is with a 50:50 mix of laundry strength liquid chlorine bleach and water. Apply with a sprayer and allow the solution to dwell on the roof surface for 15 to 20 minutes, and then rinse thoroughly with low pressure water. Extended dwell times may be necessary, however, avoid letting the solution dry completely as this may prevent complete rinsing.ā€

https://www.asphaltroofing.org/algae-moss-prevention-cleaning-asphalt-roofing-systems/

If no need to rinse I wouldnā€™t need to bring much gear. Just attach a hose to the property to prewet then treat the roof hose everything down (plants) and go. If I were to rinse I figured on using the pressure washer with the 2 story J rod nozzle and hit it from the ground. I suppose I would have to stand back so the water is not shooting up into the shingles or tiles but more over the top and down.

At least in S. Florida I wouldnā€™t have to rinse in the summer due to rain every day.

Hadnā€™t read that before, thank you for the information! I based my process off of information from the Roof Cleaning Institute (a forum like this). Iā€™d been under the impression that I was doing it the right way, but that definitely gives me something to think about.

The first roof I ever did had green moss an inch thick in places; I canā€™t imagine a half-strength mix of household bleach even coming close to dealing with it, especially with only a 15 minute dwell before rinsing.

1 Like

Hey bud. If Iā€™m seeing that pic right you may want to check the lugs on that wheel.

4 Likes

I know. Gotta get a bolt to replace there. I just finished rewiring the lights and touch up paint so thatā€™s next.

Definitely get that done prior to pulling it. Safety issues always take priority. Just seen and wanted to make sure you were aware of it.

Thanks. Actually just sold it but the new owner is aware of it.

You sold it in 4 hours! Good job

1 Like

Yeah it moved quick. It was listed the day before so less than a day to sell. I have to decide what I want to go with now and what I can pull with the Ranger. It seems like no matter what anybody gets they are always going to outgrow it or change to another set up. Based on most of what I read. My Ranger is a 4cyl so Iā€™m thinking just go with a 5X8.

I had a ranger and it couldnā€™t pull a 5x8. The trannies on them burn up real fast if you are carrying any kind of load, Iā€™d suggest getting a new vehicle ASAP or stick to what you can fit in your truck bef

I just got the 5X8 itā€™s the lighter version 375 lbs empty w/ 12" wheels but yeah Iā€™m going to start looking for another vehicle. Iā€™m on my third transmission w/the ranger not from towing just wear & tear.

Im mostly advertising for Driveways as well but given that there is so much more potential in this business id love to start upping my game and expanding my services. I love your setup and I need to get mine to the next level, Iā€™m only using a Ryobi Pressure Washer and just hauling that thing around and using clients water supply lol. I need a tank, an engine, and a trailer and start making my rig too! Your set-up is nice. Clearly Honda engines are the way to go as everyone runs these things. How do they work? Does water flow through that Honda engine via the tanks hose? And does that engine create the PSI of a pressure washer?

Welcome to the forum.

Hondaā€™s are commonly used for pressure washing. They work by powering a pump. Pumps that require a buffer tank are primarily 5.5GPM and up. They pull water from the tank. They can also use an unloader to recirculate the water to the buffer tank when youā€™re not on the trigger.

Read the guide linked in this post to help you get started: Pressure Washing 101 Guide

2 Likes

Donā€™t advertise for anything. Donā€™t up your game at all, leave your game tightly packed and secured where it is and donā€™t expand your services. Your not ready son, basic fundamentals must be had before charging people.

Thanks! Lots of studying. Here and videos as well. Still a lot to do.

1 Like

OK, so the pump is where you make the connection with you tank. My Ryobi Pressure Washer even has a Honda, VERY reliable and lasts! Definitely getting one for the trailer.

Awesome guide, you just made my read time even more productive on here. I agree, the biggest competition is yourself trying to get better. Being professional in person, on socials and sites is a great way to build a business network and learn.

1 Like

Yes 4GPM or less you wonā€™t need a buffer tank. 5.5GPM or more I wouldnā€™t run without it. It connects to the buffer tank instead of the house. You then connect your house hose to the buffer tank and fill it. The pump draws from the tank.

It then flows to your gun. If you install an Unloader (you should) it will flow through that and sense a change and divert the water flow back to your buffer tank when you let off the trigger.

Get some straps on those tanks, my man. On a mesh trailer, at least have a backing boards or some lawnmower blades underneath the mesh for the eye-bolts to go through.