So my client recently re did his pool & deck but the contractor he that did the job was a total mess by the stories he tell’s me, anyway… I’m really tying to help him out and do some re searching for him as I promised and maybe even do the work for him… I usually only stick to cleanings and dodge the restoration jobs but he’s one of my best clients and I’d like to help him out
The problem here is the Contractor applied an etching (compound? looks smooth and grey) on the concrete to etch it. From what I’ve been told it needs to be removed ASAP after it cures by a pressure washer and once removed you have the finished product, well the contractor left it on for about three week before removing it and had a hard time removing most of it, some is still left behind. How can we remove it all so we have a nice uniform finish??? Muratic Acid?
He no longer wants to deal with contractor and is looking for a solution…
They suggested Muriatic Acid, I have never used it. I’d like to get the inside scoop on how to use it properly not just go out and start spraying everywhere…
From my understanding it eats away concrete, so I’s like to know mix ratio, dwell time? Will it hurt brick? Ect…
To me it looks like it was already washed using too much pressure. Get down and close to those dark spots and look. I bet thats the actual aggregate coming through…
I have seen this before where after its cleaned it looks like that if the concrete is too new and too much pressure is used.
I have had customers ask if I can fix what the last guy did.
Concrete deactivator or retarder is used to prolong the curing process of concrete. Sometimes, when large amounts of concrete are pored during the summer months, deactivator is added to slow the curing process to allow the concrete to be properly finished before it dries. It’s also used to give concrete the exposed aggregate look. Deactivator is applied to the concrete with a pump sprayer, then the top layer is pressure washed off to show the exposed aggregate. On most pool decks, deactivator is applied then pressure washed off to remove the top layer of the concrete. Then a product called Kool Deck is applied to keep the decks surface cool enough to walk on.
So in this case there’s still a lot of it behind almost giving it a patchy look because it wasn’t fully removed. And yes the client is going after the Exposed Aggregate look… How would you go about removing what’s left? So it looks all uniform and even? Whatever’s left has been there over a year now
What is the end goal of the customer here? Ask him that - and what his budget is from here on out. Some stuff isn’t worth the hassle. We dealt with something similar, except there was some cracks in the concrete that formed as well… customer thought we could magically fix everything. After I explained to him the scope of my ability - he just had it all ripped up and got flagstone put in.
My experience with muriatic acid. I normally mix it 3-4 parts water : 1 part muriatic. Always add acid to water and not the other way around. Pre wet the concrete to saturated but no standing water. Keep solution in a 5 gallon bucket and with a stiff brush on a handle, dip into bucket like a mop and scrub onto surface. It will immediately react by foaming. Scrub and scrub some more. After a bit, the solution will no longer foam. Let dwell for 15-30 minutes. Mist as necessary. Do not let it dry. Afterwards flood with water and either surface cleaner or pressure wash the concrete.
Like others have stated, the chemical used was a retarder that when washed off, usually the day after the concrete was poured, leaves an exposed aggregate finish on the concrete. It is very visually appealing. Also, big box stores sell a low VOC muriatic acid that will be easier on your lungs.
