Also, do you have heatsinks installed on each pump? If your pumps are in any sort of enclosure they will overheat somewhat easily and the heatsinks help immensely. It may also be a good idea to install a small fan in the enclosure to help circulate air over and around the pumps to aid in cooling.
There’s a ton of info on this site but, unfortunately, there are no “sticky” threads like literally every other forum has. Near the top of the page you’ll see a magnifying glass. That is the search bar. It’ll be your best friend. YouTube can be helpful but there’s probably less than a dozen folks on there that know what they’re talking about and those guys don’t tend to show up at the top of a YouTube search, unfortunately.
Your pumps are exposed so I doubt that they’re overheating from general use. Regardless, heatsinks would be a wise investment for those pumps. They’re not terribly expensive either.
If your battery is in good shape, I would tend to agree that you may have an issue with your wiring. That, or you have a restriction (or possibly an air pocket) somewhere in the system that is causing the pumps to cycle more than they should. I agree with @EveryDetail we need to see your setup from battery connections all the way to pumps and all of your plumbing (hose sizes, fittings, etc) to really help you.
I gotta be honest with you and I don’t mean any disrespect or anything like that so please don’t take it that way. What you have going on there is a lot of unnecessary and overcomplicated stuff that really doesn’t do anything better than what a simple 12v system would do. The KISS method prevails with this stuff. You could eliminate 90% of that nonsense, add a second deep cycle battery and not see any reduction in efficiency or usefulness. The generator isn’t necessary (but handy to have on the trailer for running other stuff like sump pumps and whatnot), same with the inverter and the isolator switch. They’re nifty gadgets but, to me, it looks like a salesman got his hooks in you and sold you a Tesla when a Civic would do the job just as well and, most importantly, with considerably less down time.
Again, not trying to be a jerk but I gotta call it how I see it. I see a lot of folks with issues with their 12v systems that are directly caused by overcomplicating the system.
That being said, I hope you get this figured out but I’ll have to defer to someone who can make sense of all that you have going on there. If all else fails and you’re tired of banging your head against the wall just revert to the KISS method and eliminate all unnecessary gadgetry and start with the basics. I have a thread on here from years ago about building the cheapest 12v system I could put together at the time and that junky old system ran problem free for nearly two years. It was ugly as sin but I’ll take ugly and working over fancy and broken any day.
Pretty cool setup! I get the theory and it all checks out but in my opinion just way too much going on. I would remove the inverter/generator. Then wire one pump direct to the battery no fancy relay or china switch board with larger wire and one pump and run it with no plumbing changes.
If that doesnt get hot add another motor with simple wiring.
I will agree with dcbrock and say i think your wires are too small. You may also be short cycling the pump. If it is pulsing it will create heat and kill it.
Uni seals will have less failure long term vs those bulkheads. Also since you seem to be comfortable with electronics consider removing the pressure switches and use a single programmable pressure switch to run it all. See “freedom double eagle” setup for ideas.
No offense taken at all. I appreciate the feedback, and I’m also a big fan of the KISS method. Do what works.
I also believe in challenging the status quo and thinking outside the box, and when you do that, it always comes with critics. It’s only stupid until it works and then it’s forward thinking.
The only reason I have the generator is so I can charge my tesla that pulls the trailer! Had you going there for a minute didn’t I?
If we are truly, being honest, an air diaphragm system, or a gas soft wash, would be the most reliable options with the least headache.
I’m running this setup in a 4 x 8 harbor freight trailer that I’m towing behind an SUV. Best I can do for now until I have a larger established customer base. I have my reasons for going with the system I did.
I should say, the inverter charges the battery. Power source I primarily use is that 12 V battery on the floor but I didn’t want to carry 150 pounds in batteries so I bought a 6 pound inverter and one smaller deep cycle battery that can work together.
Power wires from the power source to the pumps are 10 gauge.
Eventually, I’ll get some videos up and show you guys my full set up.
Great information thank you. When you say run it how long are you talking? I didn’t have these overheating issues until about 30 minutes of heavy use.
Also, what do you mean by pulsing issues? When I squeeze the trigger on my gun, there’s about a one second delay before I feel the pressure from the pulse through the gun. After that it is smooth and the water flow is steady.
good one. I’m just waiting to see who the first guy to yank around a wash rig with the Tesla truck will be. I’d do it if they’d redesign that bed to actually be useable. You’d have to be 7’ tall to be able to reach in there and grab anything up by the cab with how high the bedside is there. But what can you expect from a team of design artists that have never used a truck for work.
The inverter to charge the battery is a cool idea but two deep cycle batteries hooked in parallel will run a 12v pump all day long and the beauty of deep cycles is they put out a consistent voltage until nearly fully depleted. With a good microprocessor battery charger you can take a deep cycle from depleted to 13 volts overnight and it will remove any sulfate from the cells of the battery so it is as good as new after reconditioning. I typically only have to charge my 12v batteries every few days and that’s if I’m using it quite a bit. If just using sporadically or for short periods I’ve gone as long as two weeks between charges. Either way, do what works best for you.
This we will have to agree to disagree on. The newer systems have gotten much better but even just a couple years ago people were plagued with issues with these style of pumps. Granted, many of the issues were user error but cracked manifolds and leaking gaskets and seals were prevalent. I haven’t kept up with them enough to really comment on the newer stuff but, again, KISS method works for me and I don’t need 10gpm of high concentrated solution for anything I do so it’s just not something I’d be interested in.
Upgrade as soon as possible. Those trailers are really not built to be used every day. The bearings are not sufficient for highway speeds whatsoever and I’ve seen the welds on those things and they make me shudder at the thought of putting any kind of load on them. Besides, when you get that new trailer you’ll have so much more expandability. There are some impressive rigs here built on 5x8 or 5x10 single axle trailers and you can usually find them really cheap on Facebook marketplace. I picked up a 5x10 single axle tilt trailer with a 3500lb axle on there for $400 last year. Gotta be ready with cash in hand when you find a deal.
Mine’s not 100% dead on 1%, 2% 3% etc… but it’s close enough. I try to stay on the lower end for house washes… mid to high end for roofs. I can turn both pumps on for distance if need to but rarely do. Mines a little over a year old so don’t mind the junk.
Mine are laying down. No heat issues. Using the same flapper valve for rinse & wash as you are…
Sorry man I gotta go or I could chat longer… PM for more info… later dude I’ll check my messages later on. I’m in the middle of something at the moment.