So I have a 350 tank brand new 100 bucks couldn’t pass it up so I can pull from it but it takes a good 5 min to really get going would a little water pump help with that problem and yes it’s direct drive
Is your tank raised above the pump inlet?
Put the tank on a stand a few inches above the pumpninlet so it is gravity fed. Like this:
Also, make sure you’re using a large diameter pipe between tank and pump inlet
Buzz I didn’t get that so put it up on like a crate or something of that nature so its higher off the trailer cause my pwer sits on the ground and the tank is on the trailer I just can’t figure out how to get it to work like a hook up to a water hose water on demand you know what I mean
My power washer sits 3 ft down from the tank
Get a belt drive
I know but funds aren’t in my favor for a new unit at the time maybe January so I got to make this work
Things you want to do:
As buzz mentioned, big hose, good gravity feed are important. It will also help if the water level is up a bit in your tank. This provides more gravity pressure.
You can pull the cord on your machine without turning on the switch, so you can get the pump primed before firing it up and running a dry pump. (Do that with the pressure hose disconnected, of course). Once it’s primed, keep it primed by keeping some water in the tank and not disconnecting the machine.
Thanks @Infinity I didn’t think about priming it like that I got a hose that’s bigger around as a water hose and there’s a good 3 ft drop from the tank to the pump
Ya I realised after posting that I was assuming their was no air in the pump inlet hose. But if the tank is higher and there isn’t a u-bend in the inlet hose that wouldn’t happen anyways
And like @Infinity said, when you’ve joined the tank to the pump… don’t undo that connection and their won’t be an air lock
I went outside in the dark to take a photo of my raised up tank… only to find mines not raised. But I have a gearbox on my pump, same function as belt drive
How far away is your machine from your tank? The closer the better.
4 ft maybe 5 tops and the tank is on the trailer and my pwer is on the ground so it sits 3 ft above the pump
Make sure when you start your machine, you have valve open open on your outlet hose so air can escape. Good practice always even with belt drive if been sitting for a day or so and a roof pump also.
Also, you can’t make it work with a regular hose with screw on nozzle. Screw on not air-tight. Ok if you’re running from a faucet, the pressure pushes the water into your pump. If you’re pulling water, need an air tight connection. You’ll need an adaptor for your inlet port on your washer. Anyone who sells the machines will have, they’re cheap. You want AT LEAST a 3/4" hose. I run a 1" spiroflex hose on both my 4 and my 8.5.
My tank is in my truck bed and my PW (DD) is in my trailer. 10’ of 1" ID hose. I prime as described and have no problem running a 4 GPM washer. I did test my flow rate and it fills a 5 gal bucket in about 40 seconds.
I have had this problem a few times with my 4.5. You can “stomp” on the hose to your pump a time or two and that will force the water into it with enough force to prime it and it pulls fine after that.
What is your outlet like? I’m guessing it’s an IBC tote? 2 in…step down slowly 2in to 1 1/4 to 3/4 garden. Use Spa hose. No need for the drop. Vent the top by loosening the cap. Make sure your not using connectors or a valve that’s meant for garden hoses, even when open they are restricted.
Hey Racer, Im working on the same thing as op, my non-commercial machine has a garden hose connection, is this what your referring too?
Similar - want at least 3/4" or larger nipple depending on machine size