I have a used proportioner but unfortunately one of the valves is cracked, seems to be a common issue.
Someone pointed out the water valve is always open, is it possible just to eliminate the valve and add a regular spacer in it’s place?
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Interesting. Following this.
i use a simple ball valve for the water on my proportioner
I use a ball valve for water. I just have to tweak the water a little to make sure the water and sh are pulling same amount when wide open. So have to close my water a little bit to make it as accurate as I can get. You aren’t using the same valves when you do it this way so it will affect your mix unless you tweak your water valve…at least that been my experience on them. I use just a regular ball valve for water and metering ball valve for sh. I just put soap in my sh.
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you still want the check valve on the water so SH wont mix and go back into water supply, but i am sure you can run it straight pipe too, but like below sometimes the water comes in heavier than the water and I have to adjust it.
I am confusion
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If you take the water valve out completely the ratios will be off by a bit, idk how much but I remember watching a video where someone did a flow text with a valve all the way open and then one with out a valve and there was more flow out of the one with no valve. Even when the valve is all the way open there is still the inner mechanics obstructing the flow.
I’d go with the GF valves, a lot more robust…I’ve had no issues what so ever with them.
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I agree, I had the black and white ones at first because I needed to spend the extra money one other things for the truck but switched as soon as possible and could not be happier that I did
Are you talking about the pentair valve or check valve?
I’ll try this, see if $4 works in place of a $50 Pentair.
That GF valve Donny mentioned looks nice and they are only $23.
If you find out how to get the right mix with the ball valve then there wont be any difference 
Yes the regular ball valve is around 20.00 the metered valves are around 120.00.
I’m starting to install everything, how are you all tapping into the water and SH tanks for the proportioner? It seems redundant to drill another hole for a bulkhead. I can toss in a dip tube for the SH but water?
I use drop sticks for all of them, that way I can clear out the SH with water and change surfactant easier.
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Makes sense, didn’t think about clearing the lines.
We found it best to eliminate any bulkheads/elbows/connections as much as possible in the draw lines from tank to proportioner. What we wound up doing was drilling a hole in the top a hair smaller than the O/D of the hose, and using a heat gun to squeeze the hose through. We got a pretty airtight seal that way…although it shouldn’t come into play, every failure point we can eliminate limits troubleshooting too. We just put the same PVC filter end that we would put on a drop tube on the and of the hose on an elbow barb, and it seems to be heavy enough to keep the hose to the bottom of the tank.
Water we just hook to the discharge on the IBC totes we use. When we used other tanks, we never really came up with any way better than bulkhead at the bottom of the tank.
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Ok, now why would it matter if the drop tube has a tight fit at the top of the tank?
It wouldn’t make any difference in the operation but you also don’t want SH splashing all over the place as you go down the road. I do a similar thing with my downstream tank caps but I just use a rubber grommet on the top so it holds my drop tube in to the very bottom. I drill my holes just a smidge larger than the hose.
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