The plastic parts on the ‘standard’ proportioner I have keep cracking. Mine is set up to draw from my SH tank which already has surfactant mixed in, and I have a brass ball valve on top of my water supply tank.
All I need is a one valve, double inlet (water/SH) that is of high quality. Any advice is appreciated as I couldn’t use my 12v today.
I need something like this but just one valve.
That what I use, no cracks for me, works great….not sure what the deal is there. Do you use Banjo products? You’re not tightening them to much are you? Using just blue pipe dope?
Here’s the absolute nightmare I have right now. The clamp is pinching a cap as that side was sucking in air. Today the SH draw was pulling air so probably a crack somewhere.
I just want to start fresh with quality components.
As you can see I don’t need a valve on the water side.
Do you run 90’s or straight barbs off of your one?
Straight….
I don’t care for the pentair valves myself, crack easy I think….GF are a lot more robust.
Drop tubes into both tanks, so no fittings on the tank itself.
Really I’m not trying to fix that mess, just need a parts list for a one-valve proportioner and I guess reusing the two backflow valves I currently have.
Get rid of those 90’s brock and secure it properly not with zip ties, you won’t have any issues. Proportioners flex all over the place under use due to where the T fitting is when heat soaked and induce flex and crack at various places, the 90’s don’t help. Less movement, less cracks, it’s never pressure related with 12v systems, 90% of the time it’s how it’s mounted and what you have hanging off the fittings. Mount it upside down with straight nipples and secure it solid. Problem solved.
Doesn’t hurt to have valve on water side in case you ever need to use to transfer SH, can shut water off completely which also works better when flushing SH valve at EOD. You can buy a nice 1/4" thick aluminum plate on Amazon to mount everything to, pretty reasonable. But agree with Muscle on getting it mounted correctly, though I have no idea why he would mount upside down other than he’s on the underside of the world and everything opposite down there, lol.
Then mount that to the wall.
Or just buy a proportioner - buy once- cry once
If you mount it upside down with straight nipples going straight out the bottom you won’t have the weight and flex up top on the 90’s where there is no T piece and flexes the most. This matters little if it’s mounted securely like your overpriced ProPortioner in a shiny box with cool stickers, but something tells brock will double down on the zip ties and complain again later lol. Only kidding brock 
I like the hydro mixer its $600
Mounts great with zip ties! 
Very funny guys, I told you it was a disaster.
I do have a cheap metal ball valve right at the water tank, sure beats $150 for one of those GF valves.
I’ll try and salvage this thing tonight, if I can loosen the fittings with all the pipe dope.
Got it ‘fixed’, the backflow valve had a crack, sucking in air. Deleted the leaky pentair valve on the capped soap side, found a broken spring in another backflow valve. Also discovered a leak at the output nipple on the pump, so one issue led to three fixes.
I’d still like to get a parts list to build a one GF valve unit if possible.
I’ve had the GF valves for several years with no issues….
Ditto…the check valves on the other hand, not so much, lol
I know, right…
What issues specifically are you guys having with those CV’s?
Spring breaks down over time allowing flow in both directions……
Same as anything with a spring in it, lifespan…especially with SH. Check valves, DS injectors, all are consumables. Budget for them like you do for SH and fuel…
I don’t know what CV you guys are running but that “style” CV is supposed to have a Hastelloy spring in it.
