@Steve: Yes sir the brown at the top and off to the sides are the correct color. It only started to turn lighter as I rinsed from the ground and in a panic effort to remove that (as well as some stuff off the window trim) I broke out the brush and made it worse.
I don’t supposed you have a ladder that you could use to get up there and see what’s up?
That doesn’t sound like disturbed oxidation as we usually think of it. Sounds more like the white chalky residue from the metal window frames got brushed onto the siding and if that’s the case it might just need brushing and rinsing. Spraying Cleansol every where might make your issue worse.
If you don’t have a ladder, it looks likes the two windows on the left might be in a bedroom and if so they might open to where you could go inside poke your head out and get a close-up view of the siding to see what’s going on. Take a damp microfiber cloth with you and see if it wipes off onto the cloth.
@Steve. Thank you, I do have a 32’ that would get me up there. I will give that a shot as I wait for the chems to arrive.
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I had the weep marks 2 times last week. I almost convinced the heat is playing a factor. It usually humid and hot here. We have it happen once in awhile but never twice in a week. @Racer any thoughts on heat being a factor? I know its always hot and humid down that way.
Also we had our first seal leak in a garage last week. Guess who’s painting this week 
It could have been in their living room. So that’s a win
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So true
Where did the water come in from?
I think it got behind the siding near the top. I won’t know for sure until I pull that bottom trim peice but I’m guessing they skipped putting the proper flashing between the wall and roof during the build. Wouldn’t cause a problem when it rained but while rinsing with volume some got in. All just speculation at this point but I’m 85% sure thats what happened.
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Yes for sure heat will cause it dry quicker. During the summer I always try to go back and mist when it’s about 80% dry, you can see where it’s still wet especially on some of these older vinyl homes. Plus if it hasn’t been washed in awhile a lot more of a problem. Usually with the people that get their’s done every year or 2, not so much. When it’s been a good while, then just more dirt to leak out.
There are two different types of weep marks on vinyl siding after washing.
The first and most obvious is when water gets dislodged from the drain holes and leaves a brown stain on the siding.
The other weep stain we see thats not near the drain holes is caused by a two factor situation.
- Too much surfactant
- Environmental factors.
Water always flows in the same pattern. So when you rinse, the water will flow and build up in certain areas. Those areas will take longer to dry if not in full sunlight. When water dries slower, especially with an added surfactant, it will leave a non permanent mark. This is the same concept if you leave a cold cup of water on a glass table. You will see a water mark when it dries.
One way to potentially avoid these issues is in the way you soap and rinse.
Never try to go too further then a heavy rain storm in terms of rinsing ect…
If you go far beyond what nature naturally produces you may disturb certain things.
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Racer is on the money. you have two issues…the house has oxidation which was there before you started, but the darker spots were where at the tail end of the drying process the last few wet spots not only concentrate the dirt left behind but also are running from the backside of the vinyl. this is more prominent on DS vs Softwars as the volumes and velocities from DS do push a little water on the backside. the Rain would naturally take this away as rain hits lightly and runs from top down…where your spraying at 90 degrees or a little up. trying to mist the siding and emulate rain as much as possible will help.
@racer;what is the strongest ratio i can get using an xjet with 12/2% sh ,and a 3500psi 8gpm machine?
Rick doesn’t really use an xjet so he might not know. There’s an xjet draw rate chart somewhere. @anon37135677 always has it to post. I think it’s like 3 to 1 without using an orifice on an 8 gpm. He’ll be along to post the chart though.
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Ok,sometimes the numbers confuse me,what % sh would 3to 1 ratio be?thank you@marinegrunt
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,so that would give me 1/1/2% maximum strength?
I think you would get closer to 3%.
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Ok,thank youwhats a good strength to melt cobwebs?
Regular HW mix dissolves spider webs, about .7%
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With your 8, with no restrictor on it, you’re going to drain that 5 gal xjet tub in like 3 min at 3-1
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