I bought some new steps for the house, installing them on top of a slab and replacing the pre cast steps there now (spalling). I bought the stone from the quarry and trailered it home. Called every rental place in like a 2 county wide area and no one had a step/stair clamp for rent. So now I am down to using pallet forks and straps to move these risers and steps. I really wanted to use the vacuum system, that is so cool.
Steps 16" deep 60" long, top step/landing 20" deep 480 lbs. I figured a 2" overlap on steps, quarry owner agreed. I have all my measurements, rough sketched on a pad, laid out on slab.
Any advice from experience on what not to do with straps and stones? I have dry laid stone before for retaining walls, but that was rocks and boulders so chipping didn’t matter. chipping does matter on these steps to me, as I want the smooth end exposed. I have a big pry bar and some wedges once i place the stone to get the straps out. I am a little concerned I will have to nudge that top stone into place with a big rubber mallet or the points on the forks. I have a tractor to move them. I have carbide chisels, diamond blades etc.
Looking for advice on the do’s and don’ts of straps and steps if you have done it.
I haven’t built one before but by looking at the possible edge damage from a pry bar I would weld a wide piece of plate on the end of a bar to spread the load along the bottom edge of step when removing lifting sling.
A piece of rubber mat may help as a buffer if you need to manoeuvre step with forks
Thanks. I bought a wide tip pry bar just for this. I have lots of rubber roofing I was planning on putting on each step to keep the marks off, plus a thick piece of rubber for the edges. Have some wood for fulcrums. I have a couple of big dig bars with wide ends, but I am really hoping not to have to use them.
Being a Boilermaker we do a lot of heavy lifting. Over 2000 tons at times. I would lift those steps by choking. One one side you want the “choke” on the outside top edge and the other on the inside top edge. I can try and draw a picture if need be but I think I might’ve eaten my last crayon though. I would also use a softener on where the strap goes over the corner of the block. A short section of hose cut in half lengthwise works great as a softener. It’ll protect your strap from the sharp edge and also the step edge. You can also use multiple pieces of cardboard folded over.
It’s done, not perfect, but I saved at least 2k by doing it myself.
It is like big heavy legos: Straight step then two (I call them risers) at 90 degree angles. continue same until the last step.
I cut the steps with a diamond blade circular saw and some carbide hand tools for stonework (tracer, facer, pointer). My diamond blade isn’t big enough so I used the tracer to finish it off. If I had a concrete saw it would have likely cut it all the way through. I also used a masonry grinding wheel on an angle grinder to help create the notches for my siding. I live in the north and with freeze thaw cycles I wanted to ensure by siding had room to expand and contract as well as some place for snow and ice to go to once melted.
Anywho, for those interested here are some pics. Last stone was about 400 lbs or more. 6" thick 20" deep and 60 inches long. All stones are rough faced except for the stair treads themselves.
Now i have to acid clean my concrete and restain the pad and walkway.
Thanks, I appreciate it. My old fat arse is a little sore today, moving that top stone back and forth while notching it beat my ligaments and tendons up.
I would also use a softener on where the strap goes over the corner of the block. A short section of hose cut in half lengthwise works great as a softener. It’ll protect your strap from the sharp edge and also the step edge. You can also use multiple pieces of cardboard folded over.
