Bingo. Bypass lines need to run all the way into the tank with a weight on them so they do not feed into the discharge area.
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Or put some of that black flexible landscaping pipe(sorry don’t know the name) to stop sloshing while also preventing air bubbles from reach the discharge. I had this problem but the flexible piping fixed both issues.
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Yeah bypass lines are a big issue if not positioned right in the buffer.
Also, the smallest drip leak in the pressure hose inlets, or even gun can cause a surge.
It may be a leak you might not notice unless you look.
How much pipe does it take
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I think I’ll do the same for my ibc tote. You can get a 100’ roll for about $30. I bet you can get most of it in a tote if you coiled it in there just like it is when you buy it. Might be difficult to get it coiled that tight so will be interesting to hear what Harold has to say.
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It’s called Corrugated pipe and or drainage pipe.
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Drainage, gotta have the slits.
I got the whole roll into a 275 tote. I don’t remember how long it was. Just the standard length on a roll at Home Depot. I was surprised at how well it worked.
I use PVC only on the joints
I think the box stores mainly sell 100’ rolls.
We call it drain tile or some corrugated drain tile around here.
I’ve seen reputable manufactures mis this detail on manufactured set ups
Not many vendors remember or have had real world experience
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Do you guys remove that 90degree part inside the leg tank?
I noticed when I drain tested my tank with no fittings except the bulk head and funky 90 inside the tank seemed to slow the drain. Should I cut the 90 off?
Is the tank vented adequately?
Also, I’ve got no idea what 90° fitting you speak of. Is this a leg tank, or an IBC tote?
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Yes tank is vented. So what is it that you guys are suggesting? Lower the return hoses so theyre further into the tank and not causing sloshing and baffle the tank? Do you think my 2.5” reduced to 1.5” is adequate to feed both machines? As you can see its 2.5” out of tank reduced to a 1.5” wye and 1.5” to each machine.
If it were me, I would replace everything in red with crush proof hose. I’d run it to the other side of the pump. I would swap the 3-way wye with a 2-way (or even a tee), and put my dump valve on a separate bulkhead. And I would put a y-strainer before each machine, since junk will still find its way into the tank.
My bypass return line goes to a bulkhead in the top of the tank, and I have a 90° barb fitting on the inside directing the flow against the side of the tank. I run 1/2” hose with 3/4” fittings for the bypass so there’s less pressure spraying into the tank. For an 8 gpm machine, I might go up to 3/4” bypass hose.
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Yes thats one thing we over looked was y strainers. I have a filter on the inlet of the pump but forgot y stainers. Was planning on cutting them in any way
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Yep, ditch the inlet filters and just go with the strainers.
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Yeah, do your drain test again, and while it’s draining open the lid. You should see a drastic improvement in flow.
