Issue with water in Pump/gearbox

Hello everyone, about a month ago I bought a Gx390 w/ a 4gpm CAT 45G pump used from someone who said they owned a construction company and used it to remove graffiti. I live in Ohio, it was stored in a storage unit, and all the gas was emptied out during/before storage.
I had just redone all the fluids on it (engine, pump, gearbox with all their respective oil types) and replaced carb (it was leaking and wasnt the needle valve or float bowl gasket so i just put a new oem one on), replaced fuel lines, and put a new QC on it. I decided to finally test it today. I ran water through it and water started shooting out of the thermal relief valve. Before spending another $60 and more time on it I wanted to see if the pump even worked so i started it and shut if off after i saw i was getting pressure. This is when I noticed the milk in the pump oil and gearbox (it could have been there after water, but before i started it; i am not sure). I was/am beyond disappointed. Did I goof by running it with the thermal valve popped, or was something wrong from the get go? Iā€™m not sure what caused this but Iā€™d love to hear if anyone has experienced this. Is it just the seals? Could it be something more? How big is the chance I spend more money to get this fixed by a shop only to have more issues to deal with. Basically Iā€™m asking is do you all think its worth it to dump more resources into it, or should I just slap a new gb and 5.5gpm pump on it (money I really thought I wouldnā€™t have to spend, at least right away)? Iā€™m so torn and saddened as I was really excited to get started washing. Iā€™ve read so much on this forum (before making an account obviously as its fresh) and was just started to get confident about getting into the business, then this roadblock happens. I know Iā€™ll encounter many roadblocks, but could I get some input on this one? Thanks a lot in advance everyone, I appreciate your time.

p.s. I can only upload one pic as a newbie, this is of the gearbox, but there is some milk in the pump too and the thermal relief valve is a hypro 3312-0004 145 degF
GgJMCe7

Youā€™re sure that itā€™s milky with water, right? Gear oil aerates very quickly and sometimes itā€™ll look like thereā€™s water in there but itā€™s just aerated oil. Let it sit for a while then double check. Pull a sample and put it in a glass jar to see if it separates out if you have to.

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The thermal relief valve leaking isnā€™t ideal but also no big deal if youā€™re going to plumb the machine to a buffer tank. No need for a thermal relief valve if the machine is constantly circulating cool water through the pump and back to the buffer tank when in bypass.

Thank you Texan, I will check in tomorrow and see if its still milky. Well, the plan was to run it straight from the spigot for a little while with the 4gpm pump on it then either A. when I get a 12v pump to do roof washing with a blend manifold or B. when i upgrade to a 5.5gpm pump on the machine (using the existing gearbox) or 8gpm machine: iā€™d plump into a/the buffer tank. Please pray its just aerated oil, if so iā€™d be tempted just to plug it and be sure to be on the gun every 5s or less (who am I kidding, Iā€™d probably take the safe route and buy the valve just in case thereā€™s an unloader issue). Iā€™m really hoping its aerated oil and youā€™ve got me tempted to go out to the garage and check, but I think I will update you all tomorrow. Also, the valve wasnā€™t leaking so much as it was shooting/spraying/gushing water out of it (with the machine off) I was thinking to myself that had to reduce flow to the pump, although now that I think about it iā€™m sure it wouldnā€™t shoot that much water out of it if plumped to a buffer since there wouldnā€™t be the same amount of pressure as would exist from the water mains.

So both the sight glasses (pump and gearbox) looks normal now. If there is water in there Iā€™m assuming it went to the bottom, although the levels look right so Iā€™m hoping that means nothing got in. Iā€™ll pull a sample and test

edit: Does this happen all the time? Why did the oil aerate? The milky oil probably doesnt lubricate as well, right? Whatā€™s the deal with airplane food aerated oil?

If you have water in there mixing with the pump oil and making it appear milky, itā€™ll stay milky. Since it sounds like yours is returning to a normal color and normal level, itā€™s likely that you are in the clear.

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Eh, aerated oil in a simple gearbox isnā€™t going to cause any premature harm or anything. Itā€™s pretty typical with the vibrations. You can take a sample to verify but Iā€™m confident that itā€™s just aerating the oil and since you say the levels havenā€™t changed that pretty much confirms it.

Yup I took a sample and let it sit for a few hours, no separation, nothing. So this is basically a non-problem and i should either A. replace the thermal relief valve, or B. set up a buffer tank and plug where the ā€˜valveā€™ used to be? the aeration was also seen in the pump watch glass, is this a normal thing? I apologize but itā€™s had me quite a bit freaked out. Thanks for your responses DT, as well as PPWofLexSc, I appreciate it.

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Yes, perfectly normal in the pump as well. This is why itā€™s critical to use the proper oil for your pump. Non-detergent pump oil clings to hard surfaces very well and does so even when aerated.

Iā€™d probably remove the ā€œAā€ option and just go ahead and plumb up a buffer tank. With a buffer, you can let go of the trigger and move hoses, brush a gutter, tank to a customer, etc. You can do all those things without a buffer but youā€™ll need to be squeezing the trigger at least every 60 seconds and holding it for 10-15 seconds to allow some fresh cool water to enter the pump. If youā€™re not squeezing the trigger every 60 seconds youā€™re going to eventually burn up the pump internals and that gets expensive. A 65 gallon leg tank would be sufficient for a 4gpm machine and thatā€™s only a couple hundred bucks.

Put some rubber feet on your skid and youā€™re bouncy air pull will probably go away. But itā€™s not hurting anything like it is

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If (I probably will) I go the buffer route right away Iā€™ll use a 55 gal plastic drum similar to those that come filled with bleach. Has anyone hooked those up together using a T at the bottom? Iā€™m hoping to use that as a cheap 110 gal buffer tank when i upgrade to a larger machine. IBS my machine has rubber feet on one end and no-inner-tube tires on the other end. One tire leaked when I bought it so I filled it with about 6 oz of tire slime and no more leaks since. Here it is before I cleaned the exterior
-edit: semantics

Rubber feet bolted to your trailer/truck. If you can set your coffee cup on it without it spilling youā€™re good to go

Personally, Iā€™d avoid the drums as a buffer tank but do whatever you have to. Theyā€™re just awkward to secure and I donā€™t like not being able to see how much water Iā€™m working with. I guess you could try to find a couple natural colored drums but that might prove difficult.