I tried searching but couldn’t find anything with the same style problem.
I’ve always used an injector bypass (every 6 months to a year I rebuild or swap out the injector) and never had issues.
Today while cleaning a pool cage I noticed I wasn’t pulling any chemical. Checked everything and nothing seemed wrong.
I always keep a spare injector so I just took the whole bypass off and just connected the injector like standard at the swivel/reel and went back to cleaning. It pulled chemical and everything went fine.
Later at home
The weird thing is I swapped the new injector onto the bypass and it won’t pull chemical either, I tried rebuilding the bypass with extra (used) parts I have and it won’t work.
The injectors all seem to work by themselves connected at reel but once I connect to the bypass they suddenly lose suction and won’t pull chemical.
Am I missing something? I’ve made injector bypasses before and all worked…
Will do this week when I can run by the local pressure washing shop. I dint use heat but just seemed strange that the injectors work separate but stop when connected to the bypass. Has me baffled lol
Well I rebuilt the bypass using the same parts but swapping out the ball valve and it still won’t work. It actually seemed to want to push air/water out of the barb for the injector!?
I will go ahead and purchase all new fittings, whip line etc this week and build from scratch to see if there is some leak or something I’m missing…
Have you unscrewed the barb off the injector and checked to see if the little ball and spring are still intact? Sometimes the ball gets jammed or stuck due to corrosion. Shouldn’t happen with a new injector, although I’ve had new gp injectors to not have the barb drilled out completely and not let anything through at all. Sounds like something inline after the injector is gummed up just enough to cause just enough back pressure to not allow the ball to drop down and let chems through.
The same injector works works great when attached by itself separate of the bypass but stops working when attached to the bypass.
I think you’re right that something is blocking or gummed up the lines after causing too much back pressure. I will literally just rebuild everything this week and test.
I can’t see where he clarified it. You have a tendency to give bad advice and I just don’t want new people to be steered wrong. You said an injector bypass can’t take heat and that you replace yours regularly. Other guy was talking about ball valves. Bypass injector’s are a waste to begin with and I can think of very few instances where you would be using heat with an injector to begin with unless you are fleet washing, which is what hot shot does.
You already told us that if you do away with the bypass then it works correct ? Also in my situations when the barb from the DS is pushing water out ,Its junk and ready for the scrap bucket. you should not be having anything flowing out from that barb. So its the ball,spring or oring gumming up. I also agree with IBS ,Those bypasses don’t do squat, cept make things more complicated . Now unless you make one to stream line across the top and DS in the loop like @Racer has, That makes more sense to me, But I don’t own neither one, so I’ll shut up. Just trying to help to see you get back up.
I have my injector in the loop and I keep the straight line for when bypassing to get max flow. It’s a noticeable difference when bypassing the injector which is the only reason I keep it. I understand why some say it’s a waste because it adds more stuff to worry about and fix but I love the ease of switching over to bypass the injector which allows me to use my low pressure soap tips to rinse with on certain areas.
Again what confuses me is the injector works great by itself but once attached to bypass it stops working lol. I’ll update this week once rebuilding it.
I’ll be going old school with using an injector attached at the reel like I did for years until it’s rebuilt.
I’ve noticed you have said that numerous times in many threads which I respect. I do however get much more flow/pressure (surface cleaner goes from barely being lifted to where I almost have to hold it down). Is it strictly because of having more parts to worry about or do you honestly think it doesn’t make a difference overall?
If your surface cleaner has a problem lifting when you use an injector bypass, it is probably due to increased pressure, not gpm. What has research shown you when you did a bucket test both ways? There is so much friction loss in the bypass kit that it negates what you gain.
A bypass injector is a ball valve, that is the key part of how it works. The only other part of a bypass is the hose and fittings. Standard Ball valves are only designed to handle about 160-170 degrees. There is one that power wash store sells that is stainless with the correct build to handle the heat. I downstream with heat, especially on cold days as it helps the sh work better. I also rinse with heat as I feel it rinses faster. It is a great tool to have and there is a reason people use them. I do respect that your an original on here and I’m sure you have a ton of experience, however I do not consider you the authority on end all be all methods. A lot of what you post is true but also some of it is a matter of opinion with a no right or wrong answer. We don’t work for you and are free to do things differently. Classic example is you don’t use the internet. Well in 2019 that’s new businesses are found. Just because someone has a different method, or opinion than yours, doesn’t mean it’s bad advice…
Your injector is the culprit then I’m thinking, If you’re not gonna put a new one on then look a the rubber oring inside and stretch the spring a bit if its leaking Or the orifice is wore out. I’d get a new one. Its $16 bucks…
And if your not getting soap, some cut a link in the spring to ease up tension, ya can’t do both so I’d trash it and put a new one on there.
