Every year my hudson float valves fail. Is anyone using anything other than hudson? I know there was a post previously where someone was talking about one he was installing. I remember them being black and yellow maybe?
any input?
Every year my hudson float valves fail. Is anyone using anything other than hudson? I know there was a post previously where someone was talking about one he was installing. I remember them being black and yellow maybe?
any input?
update, i found them. Jobe valves. Does anyone have any experience with them
I use Jobe valves. They offer higher flow rates (depending on the model), better mounting options, and fewer places for debris to collect. You can also lock them to shut off flow completely, which makes disassembly and cleaning much easier while on a job. Overall, I much prefer them to Hudson’s, they cost a bit more, but they save a lot of headaches.
I originally got the rojo, but realized the size of the ball would not clear my tank opening and the flow was low, so I went with the topaz compact.
Thanks, I’ll look at that one. And it can be top mounted like a Hudson too right?
The Topaz Compact .75 inch is the way to go. I tried top mounting, didn’t work well. Side mount it for sure & be done with it. Just don’t drive with the tank full. They don’t like sloshing.
Just asking because I haven’t seen anyone do it and wondering if there is a reason why. I always thought if I did go full time and build a system with a tank and not my 4gpm, I would do a 12v solenoid and simple float switches.
You could mount a valve anywhere on your rig, it wouldn’t have to be on the tank. You could even enclose it in a box to keep it out of the weather. Then on the tank you just need a small port on the top to drop in a float switch at the level you want the water. With this setup, you could even do two switches and be able to select where you want the fill to max out at. So, smaller jobs you could set it to never fill past ½ tank, but larger jobs let it fill to the top.
I’ve designed a system like this before for a different application. Basically, I needed a tank to stay at a certain level for a larger pump to draw from it. The switches controlled another pump, not a valve, but same idea.
I think that would work but in my opinion too many components to fail. I have a 925 gallon tank with a float valve at 500 and one at full and if the hudsons would quit failing it worked just fine.
From what I’ve read on here, the manual floats fail often. Sealed, magnetic float switches don’t fail. If anything, they get dirty and stick, but in plain water that will most likely not ever happen. In my industry, we use liquid solenoid valves on every machine we build. They do not fail often at all, and that’s being uses with nasty fluid, not nice clean water. You could build this, with some upfront effort of course with design and layout, for under $100. Use a NO valve so that even if it fails, it just overflows and not run your tank empty while you’re working. For how cheap the valves are, I’d plumb them up with quick connect fittings and spade terminals on the wires. If one were to ever fail, you could swap it out in a minute. ![]()